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Routes in No Place Like Dome

Honey T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pay No Attention To The Man Behind The Curtain T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Question, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Storm Riders (aka The Answer) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
There Is No Place Like Home T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Welcome To Rondoland (aka Glenda's Crack) T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Rex Pieper & Doug Benner, November 1989
Page Views: 90 total, 1/month
Shared By: Rex Pieper on Sep 29, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Doug and I climbed this in threatening weather. Exiting from the dihedral was a flake of rock that was a perfect handhold to help pull you out. When exiting, I pulled on that flake and it came off (I have some before/during/after pics of the FA). I don't believe that it was climbed prior to our ascent as this flake would obviously have been touched prior, had the route been climbed. Thus I dispute the "Answer" FA claim. If the "Answer" team can show me photos of that flake there during their ascent...I'll acquiesce and accept their claimed FA and name.

And as a historical sidenote, it was my name that stuck to this formation and have always thought it one of the better names I came up with. I only wish it was a better "dome." Haha.

We climbed "Storm Riders" to explore elements of the formation for other ascents and walked off to the west.

Location

Large, obvious, left-facing flake/dihedral/overhang. Called "The Answer" in Vogel's guide.

Protection

Medium to 3 inches

Photos

joed  
The top out on The Answer is classic and worth the price of admission. Feels gymnastic. Apr 29, 2010
Will S
Joshua Tree
  5.9
Will S   Joshua Tree
  5.9
Fun pitch that lends itself to a variety of approaches...crack, chimney, face. Protects well. No discernable crux. Tops out near the base of "Honey" an arching crack and face pitch which is excellent (much better than this pitch) but "Honey" is best done in cool/cold weather for reasons you will discover on route. Nov 25, 2006