Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Escape Rock

Ballbearings Under Foot T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Emotional Rescue T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Escape From The Planet Earth T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exit Stage Left TR 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Exit Stage Right T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Farewell Ambassador T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Psoriasis T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rick Rockwell T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 165 ft
FA: Jan McCollum, Dave Houser 1/78
Page Views: 499 total, 4/month
Shared By: Rex Pieper on Sep 29, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


7 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This route is near the center of the face. First move is a high step lieback and mantle to a bolt. A bit unnerving for those not used to the old school Josh routes. Continue up past 3 bolts to a false summit slab. (The route actually climbs to the right and more directly than what the Vogel guide shows). From the false summit slab, clip an ancient 1/4" bolt and boulder to the summit.

Location

Anchors are beneath a small summit boulder in front of the large "Ballbearings under foot" boulder. Downclimb to the south (right when looking at wall) to a tree. Rap 80' to ground from tree.

Protection

4 quickdraws
Camalots 1-3 for anchors (or medium/large stoppers).

Photos

- No Photos -
1/4" button-heads with homemade aluminum hangers. They at least look halfway decent (not rusty, and the aluminum hangers aren't elongated or loose) but I sure didn't want to test any of them. The start requires a cheat stone unless you're really tall, and it kind of contrived and silly. The rest of the climbing is decently fun and flows well until the 4th bolt which is in a great spot to provide some hefty rope drag and not really protect you at all for the last bouldery moves to the summit. I wonder if this was intended to be the end of the route? I skipped the bolt, climbing right onto easier ground to a gear anchor above. The rock is decent considering how little traffic this line likely gets. A rappel from the boulder at the top (slings underneath) with a single 60m rope gets you back to the base of the route. A 50m won't. May 9, 2011