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Darth Vader's Revenge

5.10a, Trad, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 3.1 from 128 votes
FA: Chris Falkenstein, Herb Davis, July 1978
California > Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Low Profile Dome
Access Issue: Latest updates on Covid and 2020 visits. Details

Description

Follows a line of bolts, past a roof, to the right of "Golfer's Route".
A Tuolumne classic! Gets a lot of traffic.

Protection

Small pro and draws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

clearing the crux
[Hide Photo] clearing the crux
Cole about to pull the roof.
[Hide Photo] Cole about to pull the roof.
crux'n
[Hide Photo] crux'n
miming the right off the deck thrilling hand traverse moves after the first bolt
[Hide Photo] miming the right off the deck thrilling hand traverse moves after the first bolt
whatever<br>
[Hide Photo] whatever
Thin face climbing often results in thin facial expressions! Mark on lead of the second pitch of Darth Vader's Revenge.
[Hide Photo] Thin face climbing often results in thin facial expressions! Mark on lead of the second pitch of Darth Vader's Revenge.
"Darth Vader's Revenge".<br>
Photo by Blitzo.
[Hide Photo] "Darth Vader's Revenge". Photo by Blitzo.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

oldbull
Laguna Beach, CA
[Hide Comment] A very fun climb.....fun traverse out right early on to a so-so nut that protects the move after the traverse and on your way up to the bolt under the small roof. Stellar position getting the right sequence of moves to pull up and over....moderate slab moves find you for the home stretch to the chains. Apr 14, 2009
Robert Mooring
Lafayette
 
[Hide Comment] The traverse down low goes left not right Jul 7, 2011
DE F
CO
[Hide Comment] Not exactly a sport climb, definitely mixed, gear down low and bolts up high. Wouldn't want to make the traverse down low with no gear in! Definitely a great route! Dec 12, 2011
Sara Ann Konopka
Denver, CO
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Place two pieces before the first bolt and it's not PG13. Sep 10, 2012
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] What a hoot. Bring some microcams and this is totally well protected. Do it. Sep 23, 2013
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] As "oldbull" said " getting the right sequence of moves to pull up and over" is the crux, although shorter climbers might find the step-and-reach out left (down lower) to be the issue. Aug 26, 2014
WillF
Sacramento
 
[Hide Comment] A blue/purple master cam was nice to have for the "small nut" section. The traverse at the beginning was fun. Jul 20, 2015
Jason Albino
Salt Lake City, UT
 
[Hide Comment] 60m rope works for this line. This one's a nice example of 10a Tuolumne mini-knob climbing. The roof can be surmounted either left-to-right, or right-to-left, as our party of three demonstrated.

If nobody else is around, you can reasonably clip the final bolt of Shit Hooks as a directional on the way down (adding another one at the top of the crack portion of the climb) in order to top-rope that route as well. Other than the minor burl of the first section on that climb though, it didn't seem any harder of a lead than Darth Vader's Revenge. Might need a 70m if you're doing this TR setup on Shit Hooks, not sure. Sep 4, 2015
Austin Donisan
San Mateo, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Tiny offset cams work nice for getting to the 2nd bolt. A 0.1/0.2 X4 fit great. Aug 13, 2020
Snaggle Brain
Lee Vining, CA.
 
[Hide Comment] Such a fun route! Instantly got put on my favorites list. The one section that would be a decker takes a purple metolius but even that wasn't absolutely bomber. Given that the rest of the route is bolted, it seems like one more bolt right there could prevent a serious fall and not take away from the excitement of the climb. I also thought this climb is totally worthy of a new set of ASCA anchor bolts. The hangars were all swiveling freely and there was a decent amount of rust on each bolt. Sep 30, 2020