Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Chris Falkenstein, Herb Davis, July 1978
Page Views: 3,609 total · 24/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Sep 28, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

108 Opinions

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details


Follows a line of bolts, past a roof, to the right of "Golfer's Route".
A Tuolumne classic! Gets a lot of traffic.


Small pro and draws.


Laguna Beach, CA
oldbull   Laguna Beach, CA
A very fun climb.....fun traverse out right early on to a so-so nut that protects the move after the traverse and on your way up to the bolt under the small roof. Stellar position getting the right sequence of moves to pull up and over....moderate slab moves find you for the home stretch to the chains. Apr 14, 2009
Oakland, Ca
snowhazed   Oakland, Ca
The traverse down low goes left not right Jul 7, 2011
Dan Friedman
Boulder, CO
Dan Friedman   Boulder, CO
Not exactly a sport climb, definitely mixed, gear down low and bolts up high. Wouldn't want to make the traverse down low with no gear in! Definitely a great route! Dec 12, 2011
Sara Ann
Sunnyvale, CA
Sara Ann   Sunnyvale, CA
Place two pieces before the first bolt and it's not PG13. Sep 10, 2012
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
What a hoot. Bring some microcams and this is totally well protected. Do it. Sep 23, 2013
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
As "oldbull" said " getting the right sequence of moves to pull up and over" is the crux, although shorter climbers might find the step-and-reach out left (down lower) to be the issue. Aug 26, 2014
WillF   Sacramento
A blue/purple master cam was nice to have for the "small nut" section. The traverse at the beginning was fun. Jul 20, 2015
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
60m rope works for this line. This one's a nice example of 10a Tuolumne mini-knob climbing. The roof can be surmounted either left-to-right, or right-to-left, as our party of three demonstrated.

If nobody else is around, you can reasonably clip the final bolt of Shit Hooks as a directional on the way down (adding another one at the top of the crack portion of the climb) in order to top-rope that route as well. Other than the minor burl of the first section on that climb though, it didn't seem any harder of a lead than Darth Vader's Revenge. Might need a 70m if you're doing this TR setup on Shit Hooks, not sure. Sep 4, 2015