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Routes in Low Profile Dome

Black Widow T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Darth Vader's Revenge T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golfer's Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Memo From Lloyd T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Orange Man T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
R2D2 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Shit Hooks T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Skywalker T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Chris Falkenstein, Herb Davis, July 1978
Page Views: 3,186 total, 23/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Sep 28, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

Follows a line of bolts, past a roof, to the right of "Golfer's Route".
A Tuolumne classic! Gets a lot of traffic.

Protection

Small pro and draws.
Jason Albino
San Francisco, CA
 
Jason Albino   San Francisco, CA
 
60m rope works for this line. This one's a nice example of 10a Tuolumne mini-knob climbing. The roof can be surmounted either left-to-right, or right-to-left, as our party of three demonstrated.

If nobody else is around, you can reasonably clip the final bolt of Shit Hooks as a directional on the way down (adding another one at the top of the crack portion of the climb) in order to top-rope that route as well. Other than the minor burl of the first section on that climb though, it didn't seem any harder of a lead than Darth Vader's Revenge. Might need a 70m if you're doing this TR setup on Shit Hooks, not sure. Sep 4, 2015
WillF
 
WillF  
 
A blue/purple master cam was nice to have for the "small nut" section. The traverse at the beginning was fun. Jul 20, 2015
Robert Hall
North Conway, NH
  5.10a
Robert Hall   North Conway, NH  
  5.10a
As "oldbull" said " getting the right sequence of moves to pull up and over" is the crux, although shorter climbers might find the step-and-reach out left (down lower) to be the issue. Aug 26, 2014
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10a
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10a
What a hoot. Bring some microcams and this is totally well protected. Do it. Sep 23, 2013
Sara Ann
Sunnyvale, CA
  5.10a
Sara Ann   Sunnyvale, CA
  5.10a
Place two pieces before the first bolt and it's not PG13. Sep 10, 2012
DEF
Boston, MA
DEF   Boston, MA
Not exactly a sport climb, definitely mixed, gear down low and bolts up high. Wouldn't want to make the traverse down low with no gear in! Definitely a great route! Dec 12, 2011
snowhazed
Oakland, Ca
 
snowhazed   Oakland, Ca
 
The traverse down low goes left not right Jul 7, 2011
oldbull
Laguna Beach, CA
oldbull   Laguna Beach, CA
A very fun climb.....fun traverse out right early on to a so-so nut that protects the move after the traverse and on your way up to the bolt under the small roof. Stellar position getting the right sequence of moves to pull up and over....moderate slab moves find you for the home stretch to the chains. Apr 14, 2009