Type: Trad, 165 ft
FA: Don Reid and Mike Corbett, August 1979
Page Views: 3,424 total · 23/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Sep 28, 2006 with updates from Nkane 1
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

This excellent 5.7, starts at the lowest part of the cliff.
Climb 5.6 face past a bolt to a bulge. Step left over the bulge and follow bolts to a ledge.
Rappel.

Location

For more complete information, get "Rock Climbing Tuolumne Meadows" by Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein.

Protection

Draws and some cams.

Photos

aaron hope
Walnut Creek, CA
aaron hope   Walnut Creek, CA
Really fun route. I agree with the PG13 rating, but the one 5.7 move is protected. Runout on easy secure knob pulling at the top.

You can set up a top rope on Darth Vaders Revenge and Orange man by traversing right at the top. But please be courteous of others on those routes - they are popular leads. Jan 12, 2011
Karl K
Phoenix, AZ
  5.7 PG13
Karl K   Phoenix, AZ
  5.7 PG13
While not a bad route, my big thought after climbing this was "Boring". Most of the climbing, esp. the second half, is on big knobs and feels like a gym climb.
Runout is on 5.6 with big knobs, Tri-cams and cams make most the top half feel safe. Aug 5, 2013
Not a bad route??? Is there a better 5.7 in TM? Aug 11, 2013
Karl K
Phoenix, AZ
  5.7 PG13
Karl K   Phoenix, AZ
  5.7 PG13
Yes - many. Zee Tree, Bull Dozier, Holdless Horror, Matthes Crest, West Country, Erret Out.
Just to name a few. (And I haven't done Hobbit Book yet) Aug 11, 2013
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
 
Matt N   Santa Barbara, CA
 
Sep 13, 2013
Josh Fengel
Mariposa, CA
 
Josh Fengel   Mariposa, CA
 
Fun, easy climbing, a bit run-out in places. Two pitches - I linked this as one 170' (+/-) pitch to the upper-ledge. Brought a handful of smaller cams; used a yellow TCU, Camalot, and Alien, I believe. When setting a TR on neighboring routes, you can call "rope" and let the rope snake, end-first, down the face slowly.. or unexpectedly throw a mass of tangled rope down on the party below, spilling their beer.. your call. Jul 9, 2018
Hobo Greg
My Van
 
Hobo Greg   My Van
 
Stellar low angle knob climbing with good gear where the bolts are not. Heads up and do not fall but this is Tuolumne after all. Sep 16, 2018
Nkane 1
Berkeley, CA
 
Nkane 1   Berkeley, CA
 
The route is 165' with a rap anchor at the top (slung thread and 1 bolt). There is also an anchor with welded shuts at 100'. So you can rap with one rope. We used a 70m but I think a 60m would work. Sep 17, 2018