PRINT: Rock Climb The Javelin, Central-East Cascades, Wenatchee, & Leavenworth

The Javelin

5.10-, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 2.9 from 30 votes
FA: Gordon Briody 1995
Washington > Central-E Casca… > Tumwater Canyon > Clem's Holler Area > Special Spot

Description

The Javelin ascends an obvious and striking flake on the right side of the Special Spot. Pleasant moves up the initiala face lead to steep, extended laybacking and underclinging to the top of the flake.

Protection

Bolts. You may want an optional 3" piece, or smaller gear down low. However, I found the bolting quite reasonable without any gear.

There is a bolted chain anchor on top. The bolts are good, but the chain is configured in a dangerous way. It is backed up with slings. Consider bringing some webbing to replace these slings as they age.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The Javelin

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Rafe

5.10-

Sick route. Such a cool feature. The lieback is super positive but the clips are slightly awkward unless you clip at your waist. I would recommend a #3 though. If you blow your first lieback clip without a #3 placement, or even fall on your way to it, you're gonna hit the low angle slab below. May 5, 2009

Kip Kasper
Bozeman, MT

5.10a

sketched myself out on the upper lieback, next time I'll bring a number 4 C4 and walk it up, the 3 that I had was totally tipped out. route's frickin awesome. Feb 8, 2010

geoff georges
Seattle, Wa.

5.10a

It would be bold to climb this with no gear. The lower run-out is pretty easy but takes good medium gear,There is a hard move between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. the upper crux feels like 10b and really run-out without a #4 after the 5th bolt.
this route is on the far right of this crag. Jul 22, 2014

Chase G
Portland, OR

Pretty fun. A 1, 2, and 3 cam were nice to have between the bolts. Didn't use a number 4, the layback is protected well by the last bolt, then just mantled and clipped the chains. Jun 23, 2019