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Routes in 15 - Knob Hill

Anti-Ego Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chicken Pie T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Deception Gully T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Just for Starters S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Knob Hill Ropest T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pot Belly T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pot Belly (left variation) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sloth Wall T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unnamed T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Bill Griffin and Bruce Price, April 1973
Page Views: 2,803 total, 21/month
Shared By: Blitzo on Sep 27, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is the first climb that one comes to upon reaching the cliff.

It follows a crack that doesn't reach the ground. Do tricky slab moves up to the crack. Follow this crack (5.7) to a ledge.

A second pitch is rarely done for good reason. If you must try it, move left from the ledge and up a 5.9 crack.

Protection

Pro to 4" (for anchor and/or second pitch).
Robert Shortt
San Francisco, California
  5.9
Robert Shortt   San Francisco, California
  5.9
IMO Slab Start = 5.9, Undercling from left start = 5.8, right crack = 5.7, left crack = 5.9, left slab (TR only) = 5.9

Bolts were indeed chopped from the top, so set up TR in the horizontal crack with three cams and an easy walkoff. Aug 24, 2015
Justin Johnsen
Nor Cal
Justin Johnsen   Nor Cal  
Looks like the FA team called this 5.7. I updated the route grade to follow this. SuperTopo calls it 5.8. Aug 3, 2015
Gracew  
I was there July 5th, 2015 and the bolts are definitely gone. Climbed all the way to the top of the "knob" as well and no bolts to be seen. Jul 8, 2015
Pot belly is 5.7!!! not 5.9 thats ridiculous, just because it has tricky slab move Nov 12, 2013
Kevin Heckeler
Upstate New York
  5.8
Kevin Heckeler   Upstate New York
  5.8
The beta from locals has the right hand crack at 5.8, and the left finger crack at 5.9 No bolts. I think the supertopo guide had the same grade(s). Oct 10, 2011
Nick Zmyewski
Newark, Delaware
5.8+
Nick Zmyewski   Newark, Delaware
5.8+
The start feels like hard 8 or 9 slab, then the crack is 7ish. good to practice your slab edging Oct 7, 2011
SKI
Portlandia, OR
  5.7
SKI   Portlandia, OR
  5.7
Don't overthink the bottom start. Get a running start and hit the jug below the crack. Best done in approach shoes. Undercling is 5.7 at most. When in doubt, follow the path of least lichen/black granite! Jun 13, 2011
Mark P Thomas
Draper
  5.8+
Mark P Thomas   Draper
  5.8+
These comments make me feel better about climbing so poorly on 5.8 slab. After sliding/falling 3 times on the start when leading, I chose the undercling variation, which is much more manageable (although it would be ugly if you fell near the end, as if your feet popped out on the slick granite, you would smash your face into the undercling lip before you fell to the ground). I could do it on TR, but it felt really hard! Perhaps it has gotten slicker over the years?

Ditto about the crack above. I couldn't find the bolts, and attempted to climb this crack thinking that maybe the bolts were higher. That crack has an intense lieback on corroding granite covered in lichen. Fell once on that from my feet ripping off some exfoliating granite before deciding it was a dumb idea to continue up it due to the unknown terrain, cruddy rock, and ledges to hit if you fell. Dec 15, 2010
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
  5.9
Decent climb but short. The face moves to gain the crack are slick - 5.9. The transition feels 5.7 but the rest of the crack is easy. May 15, 2009
Matt Lundy
  5.7
Matt Lundy  
  5.7
I was up here in April '07 and I didn't notice any bolts. You can easily set up a TR anchor with a #1 and #4 Camalot. There is also a wedged rock you can sling. Try the thinner crack that slants diagonally left (10a fingers) while on toprope. Apr 9, 2007