Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Leo Henson, 10/94
Page Views: 1,349 total · 9/month
Shared By: Matt McMurray on Sep 27, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


Scramble to the large ledge and clip the first bolt. The climbing gets thin as you move higher to the second bolt, with a nervous clip (as you might brush the ledge if you fall). This starts the crux sequence of smearing your feet and crimping your fingers. The crux continues from the moment you reach the start of the patina until you successfully reach the end of the black surface.

FYI- This route is rated 5.11b in the guidebooks, yet I have seen 5.12 climbers fall from the second and third bolts. Once you've mastered the sequence the route is obviously easier, yet still sandbagged at 5.11b especially compared to other similar Red Rocks climbs.


This route climbs the right side of the large black spot (look a bit like Australia mate...) up a seam, and continues to the anchors.


Five bolts to the anchors.


susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Hard and extremely sequential. The difficulty took the fun out of it. It's hard! Oct 27, 2008
kind of disagree with the description. crux is lower ,before patina. Nov 2, 2008
Jon O'Brien
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
I agree con senor Wilson por beta... I also thought this route was hard as sh*t for an 11! A fine route nonetheless... Apr 22, 2009
An awesome climb...the crux is entering the varnished area. It is tricky and has a very specific sequence to it. Figure out the moves and have a blast on it. This is one of the hardest onsights you will find in Calico Hills. Apr 17, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
On 2/8/11, the ASCA replaced the anchor on this route with 1/2" x 3.5" 5-piece bolts and equipped them with Fixe double ring hangers. The first bolts hanger and core were also replaced (1/2" x 3.5" 5-piece). Feb 9, 2011
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
for those interested in climbing this route but dont climb the grade, its easy to boulder the start, then hike up the ramp, hang a left at the top and drop a rope on this one (and the .10 to its left as well).

i remember this thing being wicked hard at .11b, but its been years since i've been on it. Feb 23, 2011
Mike Dudley
Mike Dudley   Vegas
Agreed with David, the crux is most def the sandy white rock around the second bolt, clipping the second felt like the crux for me. The patina is pretty straight forward. Amazing fun! Sep 17, 2012
yann gauthier
Trois-Rivières, QC
yann gauthier   Trois-Rivières, QC
The crux is going to the black section. Very specific sequence. Hard for 11b. The black section is not hard Jan 18, 2018