Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Leo Henson, 10/94
Page Views: 1,946 total · 11/month
Shared By: Matt McMurray on Sep 27, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Scramble to the large ledge and clip the first bolt. The climbing gets thin as you move higher to the second bolt, with a nervous clip (as you might brush the ledge if you fall). This starts the crux sequence of smearing your feet and crimping your fingers. The crux continues from the moment you reach the start of the patina until you successfully reach the end of the black surface.

FYI- This route is rated 5.11b in the guidebooks, yet I have seen 5.12 climbers fall from the second and third bolts. Once you've mastered the sequence the route is obviously easier, yet still sandbagged at 5.11b especially compared to other similar Red Rocks climbs.

Location

This route climbs the right side of the large black spot (look a bit like Australia mate...) up a seam, and continues to the anchors.

Protection

Five bolts to the anchors.

Photos