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Routes in Miscellaneous Lower Blair routes / problems

Buck Shot T V2 5+
Crack Named Sue T V5 6C
Knockin' on Heaven's Door T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
University of Mars T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c V4 6B
Type: Trad, Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Justin Edl and Jeff Wendt, 2003
Page Views: 2,813 total, 21/month
Shared By: JNE on Sep 27, 2006
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a beautiful overhanging right leaning splitter wide crack. You can pull on the bottom edge like a rail or stack. You can do it right side up, but upsidedown seems to work a lot better. Once you rock all the way around the corner top out the easy slab to the apex of the boulder. A lower, logical, and very recommended start is on the bottom of the backside of the boulder. Start on two hands by the little tree and then work your way down around the corner and then back up. This start goes at V6 or V7. Bizzarre and beautiful. The name was inspired by the Shel Silverstien song "Boy Named Sue".

Protection

A couple of pads are nice because you will be upside down for a good ways and it's not super short.

Location

The best way to get to this problem is to take the trail that runs along and to the north of the three Blairs. After the trail bends right (south) and goes down hill, keep looking to the right to see this distinctive boulder about a hundred yards off the trail.

Photos

A-W
 
A-W  
 
The extended start is really cool! Nov 9, 2015
JNE
 
JNE  
 
It's very near the marker on: this map. Hope that helps. Apr 28, 2015
Kirk L
Fort Collins, CO
Kirk L   Fort Collins, CO
I'm a little confused about the location of this. Does the trail start from the picnic area or do you park just up the road (north) of the picnic area and hike Southeast down that old road?

Here is a link to what I am talking about:

google.com/maps/@41.189829,-105.3939677,459a,20y,41.13t/data=!3m1!1e3

Maybe someone could post a similar link of the boulder itself.... Apr 27, 2015
bart cubrich 1  
  V5
This is a really great rock climb! Don't boulder enough to know the grade, got it in about 7 tries over 3 sessions. Hard to know grade because it contains few individual hard moves, but the endurance required is considerable (even when done hanging from your feet). Aug 21, 2014
I did fist the thing. Don't know about timing, sounds like you got it. So long ago. nice crack! Jun 4, 2007
JNE
 
JNE  
 
Actually, I believe I had done this crack before Bob had shown it to you. I remember you telling me about it, and I had done it the fall before. I know I GPS'd this for the guide. Bob told you it was undone, but I guess he hadn't checked with me to see if I had gone back and done it. He had shown it to me one day and I tried it by leavitating instead of fist jamming, and my ankle hurt for weeks afterward because I got my foot really stuck, hence the name. I went back a month or two later and did it with Jeff Wendt spotting. If my memory serves me well, you said you fist jammed the whole thing. Jun 4, 2007
FA: Davin Bagdonas
Shown by Bob Scarpelli years ago Jun 2, 2007