Type: Trad, Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Justin Edl and Jeff Wendt, 2003
Page Views: 2,989 total · 19/month
Shared By: JNE on Sep 27, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

This is a beautiful overhanging right leaning splitter wide crack. You can pull on the bottom edge like a rail or stack. You can do it right side up, but upsidedown seems to work a lot better. Once you rock all the way around the corner top out the easy slab to the apex of the boulder. A lower, logical, and very recommended start is on the bottom of the backside of the boulder. Start on two hands by the little tree and then work your way down around the corner and then back up. This start goes at V6 or V7. Bizzarre and beautiful. The name was inspired by the Shel Silverstien song "Boy Named Sue".

Protection

A couple of pads are nice because you will be upside down for a good ways and it's not super short.

Location

The best way to get to this problem is to take the trail that runs along and to the north of the three Blairs. After the trail bends right (south) and goes down hill, keep looking to the right to see this distinctive boulder about a hundred yards off the trail.

Photos