Central Scrutinizer

Not PG13.... Takes great mid size stoppers, and small cams Feb 12, 2007

I agree, not PG13. For a Trad face climb, there's plenty of solid gear, never more than at your feet for any move. Great climb! Jun 2, 2008

one more vote for not PG-13. If there was a bolt at every bomber nut placement, it would be a completely safe sport climb.

Quality all the way, though. Oct 5, 2009

I agree that above the bolt the gear is bomber, however I gave the route a PG13 rating because getting to the bolt the gear is not ideal and you risk a ground fall. Also, the bolt itself is questionable based on its size and age. It would probably hold a hard fall, but I wouldn't bet the farm on it.

I've climbed the route many times and feel very comfortable on it, but I don't want to lull new 5.9 leaders into a false sense of security. Apr 13, 2010

I loved the reachy, technical moves on this climb. Combine that with the beautiful stopper placements, and it is one of my favorite routes at the Red. Nov 1, 2010

At some point since I did it last (ten-some odd years ago) someone has put in a pin about 10 feet up. I would be curious to know if someone has fallen on it: it faces right, the direction of the fall one would take if you didn't make the first clip. Mar 22, 2011

I don't understand why so many people feel this is a 4 star route?...I didn't find anything special with this route and am puzzled what so many people found so awesome about it.

Anyways, just thought I'd rant a little, after all it's just rock climbing :-). Dec 14, 2012

Agreed, NOT PG-13! All you need is stoppers! Best protection...Would've taken huge whips on my gear! Jan 8, 2014

This is a 4-star route because you have slab moves that are Brilliant with Gear! Do you understand how rare that is...not a ton of those within this range without a large crack going through the face! Jan 8, 2014

If you like slab this route is fantastic, if you don't like slab this route is fantastic. Such good movement and your placements are bomber. Wouldn't say PG13 by any means. Maybe PG 'cause of the sketchy piton. Mar 21, 2014

Would only call this PG-13 if you don't trust the piton or bolt down low to catch a fall. Apr 26, 2014

@Train4life - I think you put the finger on it.

My climbing area has a ton of gear protected slabs filled with tiny cracks akin to what you can find on this route.

Cheers, Jan 26, 2015

Changed protection rating to "PG" with the caveat that you should back up the piton. Jul 6, 2015

A red BD C3 (and likely a similar sized TCU) backs up the pin quite nicely. Mar 20, 2017

The piton was placed when the route was originally done, we protected the leader who installed the anchor bolts by utilizing the anchors of JuJu and Environmental Impact. Probably well past time to replace the lone bolt and anchors if they haven't been done yet. Apr 1, 2017