Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: C. Tabor, T. Fyffe 1989
Page Views: 5,122 total · 34/month
Shared By: Chris Chaney on Sep 27, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


90 Opinions

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Description

This route takes a line up the center of the "Trash Compactor" at Pebble Beach. Boulder up to a hard to see pin. Traverse right to an undersized bolt, pull the crux and plug a couple TCUs and lots of small/medium nuts to new anchors. Fantastic route!

Location

Pebble Beach between Ju-Ju and Environmental Impact

Protection

One pin, one bolt, a couple TCUs and many small/medium nuts

Photos

Gaar
Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Gaar   Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Not PG13.... Takes great mid size stoppers, and small cams Feb 12, 2007
Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
 
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
 
I agree, not PG13. For a Trad face climb, there's plenty of solid gear, never more than at your feet for any move. Great climb! Jun 2, 2008
camhead
Vandalia, Appalachia
camhead   Vandalia, Appalachia
one more vote for not PG-13. If there was a bolt at every bomber nut placement, it would be a completely safe sport climb.

Quality all the way, though. Oct 5, 2009
Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
  5.9
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
  5.9
I agree that above the bolt the gear is bomber, however I gave the route a PG13 rating because getting to the bolt the gear is not ideal and you risk a ground fall. Also, the bolt itself is questionable based on its size and age. It would probably hold a hard fall, but I wouldn't bet the farm on it.

I've climbed the route many times and feel very comfortable on it, but I don't want to lull new 5.9 leaders into a false sense of security. Apr 13, 2010
Harrison Dreves
Denver, Colorado
 
Harrison Dreves   Denver, Colorado
 
I loved the reachy, technical moves on this climb. Combine that with the beautiful stopper placements, and it is one of my favorite routes at the Red. Nov 1, 2010
brian k sohn
knoxville, tn
 
brian k sohn   knoxville, tn
 
At some point since I did it last (ten-some odd years ago) someone has put in a pin about 10 feet up. I would be curious to know if someone has fallen on it: it faces right, the direction of the fall one would take if you didn't make the first clip. Mar 22, 2011
Dom
New Brunswick Canada
  5.9
Dom   New Brunswick Canada  
  5.9
I don't understand why so many people feel this is a 4 star route?...I didn't find anything special with this route and am puzzled what so many people found so awesome about it.

Anyways, just thought I'd rant a little, after all it's just rock climbing :-). Dec 14, 2012
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.9
Agreed, NOT PG-13! All you need is stoppers! Best protection...Would've taken huge whips on my gear! Jan 8, 2014
Train4life
Boulder, CO
  5.9
Train4life   Boulder, CO
  5.9
This is a 4-star route because you have slab moves that are Brilliant with Gear! Do you understand how rare that is...not a ton of those within this range without a large crack going through the face! Jan 8, 2014
Dom R
Bend, OR
 
Dom R   Bend, OR
 
If you like slab this route is fantastic, if you don't like slab this route is fantastic. Such good movement and your placements are bomber. Wouldn't say PG13 by any means. Maybe PG 'cause of the sketchy piton. Mar 21, 2014
Dylan Randall
Denville, NJ
 
Dylan Randall   Denville, NJ
 
Would only call this PG-13 if you don't trust the piton or bolt down low to catch a fall. Apr 26, 2014
Dom
New Brunswick Canada
  5.9
Dom   New Brunswick Canada  
  5.9
@Train4life - I think you put the finger on it.

My climbing area has a ton of gear protected slabs filled with tiny cracks akin to what you can find on this route.

Cheers, Jan 26, 2015
Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
  5.9
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
  5.9
Changed protection rating to "PG" with the caveat that you should back up the piton. Jul 6, 2015
A red BD C3 (and likely a similar sized TCU) backs up the pin quite nicely. Mar 20, 2017
Crankster1 Waters
Winchester, KY
Crankster1 Waters   Winchester, KY
The piton was placed when the route was originally done, we protected the leader who installed the anchor bolts by utilizing the anchors of JuJu and Environmental Impact. Probably well past time to replace the lone bolt and anchors if they haven't been done yet. Apr 1, 2017