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Routes in Loafer's Choice Slab

Dead Meat T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loafer's Choice S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Random Toprope 47 TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad
FA: John Ficker. Steve Smelser, 1982
Page Views: 1,221 total, 9/month
Shared By: Brian Boyd on Sep 27, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


30 Opinions

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Description

Starts to the right of Loafer's Choice. Climb face past bolt to a small roof. Follow cracks up and left to arete. Sustained and runout.

Protection

Bolts supplemented by cams.

Photos

manuel rangel
Arizona
manuel rangel   Arizona
I am surprised Marty missed rebolting those old anchors. Since it is a City of Scottsdale Park, they should do the deed. If all you want is to replace the old unsafe bolts, personally I don't have a problem with that.

Bolts get old and rusted, some were bad to begin with. It is a topic I am presently working on with gear from the ASCA.

One of the difficulties is finding the bolts most in need of replacement. I'd like to start with Leeper hangers and old SMC hangers in the McDowells.

If you have any suggestions, send me a PM. Jun 23, 2015
I'll reinforce what Ted had said. Definitely wished I had had a #1 and runner for the section above the horizontal crack and mini roof before the second bolt. #4 in the horizontal. Definitely a worthwhile climb. Dec 11, 2014
rnick  
A bit harsh, just trying to get more access for those of us that don't have years of trad experience... but i do understand not wanting to change things. Oct 21, 2014
lloyd  
I don't mean to be harsh, but F - that.


I've been climbing at Pinnacle Peak for a long time. It is a trad area and we've all done the $$$ shuffle to scramble some gear together. If gear is needed (and it is on most of the routes), then bring it, or head off to one of the thousands of completely bolted routes found within a two hour drive of Phoenix. I don't recall the bolts up there being that bad, but if you feel a (subjective) need to back them up, then pick up some nuts and a few/set of hexes (you can find those CHEAP on Ebay) and rig it up with a long runner or a couple of cordalettes. I'm guessing maybe you don't have much experience, and maybe don't know how to do that, and maybe figure clipping a couple of nice bolts right above a route doesn't take any real knowledge and only costs you a couple of quickdraws, but this area isn't about your personal convenience/comfort and frankly, it shouldn't be. Oct 20, 2014
rnick  
It would be really appreciated if someone would re-bolt the anchors. Went to climb there today and set up the top rope and bailed because of the bolts. It would be great to have more access for those of us who do not own trad gear to back things up. Oct 19, 2014
roman d
Pasadena, CA
 
roman d   Pasadena, CA
 
fun warmup, bring a couple medium cams to reinforce old bolts at the top. start is right on grade for the area. 2nd bolt has leeper hanger. Jan 10, 2010
Ted Smith
Scottsdale, AZ
5.8
Ted Smith   Scottsdale, AZ
5.8
Easy to protect overhang with .75 cam and runner. The second bolt is on the upper face before the transition to arete. A runner and #1 cam in the upper crack before the second bolt is helpful--especially if a shorter climber. The third bolt is on the upper arete, with the final bolt at the top section. There are three hangers on top of the climb for anchoring, so a long piece of webbing is helpful to set it up. Nov 9, 2008