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Routes in Loafer's Choice Slab

Dead Meat T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Loafer's Choice S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Random Toprope 47 TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport
FA: John Ficker, Jim Zahn. Jim Waugh. Glen Dickinson, 1979
Page Views: 1,639 total, 12/month
Shared By: Brian Boyd on Sep 27, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Description

Sustained slab climbing on small edges. Unlike many of the nearby routes, you can walk to the top to set up a TR.

Protection

Four bolts to the traditional finish, which is a no-anchor belay in the hole. Alternately, you can climb past an additional bolt to a set of anchors at the very top. Long runners helpful if toproping. Bad fall potential getting to the first bolt; small gear can be used to protect the start.

Photos

Tim Heid
AZ
  5.9+
Tim Heid   AZ
  5.9+
This is a must do if in the area. Agreed that it felt a tad soft for PP. Getting to the 1st bolt is very easy, but a fall before clipping it would suck. May 25, 2016
walmongr
Gilbert AZ
  5.9
walmongr   Gilbert AZ
  5.9
Fairly new Glue in's at the top make this easy to set up a nice TR if you don't want to lead. You can make it harder by staying left of the bolts or easier by bailing out right near the arete. Dec 31, 2015
Anthony Miklas
Phoenix , Arizona
 
Anthony Miklas   Phoenix , Arizona
 
Sustained, and with lots of fun movement Dec 4, 2015
Colonel Mustard
Sacramento, CA
 
Colonel Mustard   Sacramento, CA
 
I vote solid for the grade. I thought it was soft, but that was the first time I led it and weenied off rightwards to the arete. I looked at the direct finish and rationalized to myself "that doesn't look too hard, I'll just take the way that seems less runout". However, a friend's whippers on the direct finish the other day inspired me to keep going straight up, and that, my friends, is where the business of the route is. Right off the fourth bolt, there are several good slab cruxes and you start looking at a little air time on moves you wish you had a jug to pull on.

Fun route and a little run out at the top despite the retrobolting. Jan 28, 2010
roman d
Pasadena, CA
 
roman d   Pasadena, CA
 
Fun climb, rating feels soft for Pinnacle. Well-bolted with lots of good rests.

The two anchor bolts at top can be easily reinforced with a couple medium cams. Dec 6, 2009