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Routes in Cling or Fling Corridor

Beautiful Dreamer (aka Gullywog) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Beautiful Screamer T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Cling or Fling S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Czech Cows Say Boo T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fringe Benefit T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Green Mansions T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Lost Boys T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Patanjali's Sutra TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Say No to Jugs S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Herb Laeger, Eve Laeger & Bob Kamps, September 1987
Page Views: 753 total, 6/month
Shared By: C Miller on Sep 27, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This climbs the attractive face on the south side of the corridor and lies more or less across from the route Lost Boys (5.10d).

Thin crimping up crisp edges is what you'll encounter on this enjoyable, but all too short route, that's reminscent of the Oyster Bar routes. Two stars out of five.

Protection

3 bolts, 2 bolt anchor/rap (all 3/8")

Photos

Sean
Oak Park, CA
Sean   Oak Park, CA
like the Route Description at the top says, Bartlett's book also indicates Cling Or Fling to be left of Green Mansions on the southside face of the corridor, starting from atop the same boulder as for Green Mansion (and for Lost Boys on the opposing face). if one enters the corridor via its more accessible westside entrance adjacent to Beautiful Dreamer, Cling Or Fling is near the middle of the RHS face. after the 4 bolts, it tops out at a horizontal just left of the rap slings atop Green Mansion. some comments and seem to confuse this route with the other bolted route on the opposing northside face of the corridor Sep 23, 2017
MJW
Boise, ID
MJW   Boise, ID
I also found the loss of anchor on these routes to be a PITA. Really absurd to have a fully bolted route w/o a bolted anchor. This seems to be common throughout the park. Instead, lets have people do repetitive walk-offs destroying vegetation?

The anchor on Colorado Crack is mank but currently backed up by a long, fresh sling and rap ring donated by a generous soul. May 4, 2008
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
Yeah Chris, as of 3/17 they were chopped. It was my first time on all those routes, so I don't know how long ago it happened. And these routes kinda blend together in my mind so it's hard to remember which was on which side. But basically, anything that tops out on the Say No side, you'll have to scramble over to the other side.

Makes it a bit of a PITA to get off these climbs. Getting over/across the chockstone is easy enough..but there was no reason to chop them. After rapping off the webbing and pulling through a few times (no rap rings), we realized this was the rap for all the routes on both sides of the corridor, added an old locker to the station and attempted to crank it down tight enough to discourage somebody from bootying it.

On a similar note, someone has tried to chop the station atop Colorado Crack and mangled one of the two bolts. It's not dangerously unsafe at this point, but sure is ugly and could use a replacement for the mangled one. Mar 27, 2007
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
I'm guessing the 2 bolt anchor/rap atop this route (and the one atop Say No To Jugs) has been chopped. Too bad whoever chopped the bolts didn't do something more worthwhile - like replacing the old 1/4' bolts on the nearby Brits In Drag, or any of hundreds of other rotting time bombs. Mar 27, 2007
Will S
Joshua Tree
 
Will S   Joshua Tree
 
After topping out, you'll need to boulder over the huge chockstone that spans the corridor to reach the opposite side where there's a slung block rap station (ignore the old sling remnants on the huge chockstone itself).

Take some webbing, you may want to replace the existing mank that we pulled a rope through a few times, and if you're generous, put some rings on it too, there are none up there.

Route is ok, somewhat repetitive thin edging/crimping. Mar 27, 2007
Adam Stackhouse

  5.11a
Adam Stackhouse    
  5.11a
The first bolt can clipped via leaning in from a boulder before taking off on this cool route. Feb 27, 2007