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Routes in The Folly

Childhood's End T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Good Book, The T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Left Side of the Folly T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C3
Type: Trad, 5 pitches
FA: FA: Harding & Fender - 1965
FFA: Bard, Bridwell, Worrall, & Kauk - 1973
Page Views: 7,344 total, 54/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 26, 2006
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection Details

Description

This is a fantastic route that has not seen much traffic in recent years due to major rockfall. The entire route is capped by a huge roof (above which a rockfall scar is clear), and for this reason most of the climb is not only unaffected, but also sheltered from future rockfall. However, you will find that the first two pitches have been affected. I don't know what they were like before, but presently there are some loose blocks, flakes, and other features on these pitches which must be navigated. There is good gear to be had, however, and if you tread lightly, you're likely to be OK -- just try to be careful not to pull off a big loose block onto yourself or your belayer. I also don't recommend bivying at the base.

P1 & 2: Link these with a 60m rope and judicious use of runners. This puts you at a huge belay ledge and under the protection of the roof. The rap anchors are modern but have clearly been struck by rocks. They appear safe to use and at least worked for us. On the way up this long pitch you'll encounter lots of loose flakes and a bolt that has been flattened. 5.9.

P3: This is a long, hard pitch. 5.10d liebacking up a corner with exactly one handjam rest and exactly zero stem rests. Sometimes wet, always pumpy. 120' or so.

P4: This is a totally rad pitch of 5.8/5.9 that hand traverses out a series of huge wedged flakes. Savor the exposure and bring a few large cams and long runners to protect it. Easily link it into the next pitch if you runner it well. 50' or so.

P5: Strenuous overhanging fists to hands in the corner. 5.10c, 50' or so.

P6: Perhaps the true crux of the route? This pitch is not to be missed. Starts off as hands and quickly goes to enjoyable fists, then enjoyable handstacks (new #5 Camalot size), then very difficult armbars/liebacks (new #6 Camalot). If you're flexible you can stem through some of this El Matador style. The bolts on this pitch have been (appropriately) chopped -- the pitch can be well protected with modern large cams. 5.9 old school.

A double-rope rap will get you to the top of the long 10d corner (just barely with two 60m ropes). Another rap to the big ledge below this pitch, and a final double-rope rap to terra firma.

Protection

Double or triple set of cams from small to thin hands, singles from hands to very wide. A couple long slings. Hardhats for leader and belayer.
Mei
Mei  
I don't know if the route is always this dirty, or it's just exceptionally dirty shortly (2 days) after the season's first heavy rain. Clothes are pretty much covered in mud and slime from the wet wide sections. Didn't experience any rockfall (even small ones) on our ascent a few days ago.

Park about 0.4 miles west of Camp 4 where you see a white sand wash on the right and go up from there. I don't think there is an official pullout there, but there is room for a car or two on the side of the road.

The hand traverse followed by a few mantle moves on Pitch 4 is fun and easy. I made a mistake not placing any gear there (where the mantle is). As a result, the rope kept getting sucked into a choke point in the corner. If you wish to link pitchs 4 and 5 (both are short), it's a good idea to place a piece on Pitch 4 at the end of the traverse (but use long runners) just to keep rope from falling into the pinching corner. You'll see what I mean once you are up there. 3 days ago
Matt Peres
Denver, CO
Matt Peres   Denver, CO
Amazing climb! The description of pitch 3 is inaccurate. This entire pitch is a stem problem with many great finger jams and lieback sections. There are many substantial foot features to be found on the left wall combined with smearing on the right wall make strong stems. There are also 2-3 great stances spaced out pretty equidistant throughout the route. Apr 30, 2017
Lucas Barth
Devils Tower, WY
Lucas Barth   Devils Tower, WY
No rockfall when I did this 2 years ago, but I thought the first pitch was fairly serious. No harder than 5.9, but not much good protection. Nov 29, 2015
Vlad S
 
Vlad S  
 
The route is REALLY good! Get on it! Link the fist 2 pitches (some loose flakes) and that will put you in a relatively sheltered position for the rest of the climb. The rap anchor on the 2nd pitch should be replaced as the hangers are bent, but it's not a serious concern. First pitch and the amazing 3rd pitch layback seep a bit after rainy weather, so beware. Oct 22, 2015
Mia A  
what's the status on this route, has it cleaned up? Oct 22, 2015
Cornelius Jefferson  
  5.10d
did this with trudeau back before the rockfall

one of the most memorable routes i've done in the valley

beyond stars Jun 1, 2013
Laine Christman
Reno, NV
 
Laine Christman   Reno, NV
 
Climbed this route 5/20-12 and there was rockfall. Might be wise to heed the locals' warnings. May 29, 2012
Roger Suen
Los Angeles, CA
Roger Suen   Los Angeles, CA
Last pitch is def a crux, if you bring a 5 you will still have to run it out a little, then you can get some c3's 00 in a little crack. Super dirty last pitch.
LB pitch has 2 good rest a stem and hand/jam ledgey thing.
Superb climb, one of the best

Just did it 2 weeks ago, twice, no rock fall Oct 9, 2011
George Bell
Boulder, CO
George Bell   Boulder, CO
There used to be lines at the base of this route (20 years ago). Awesome 3rd pitch, super pumpy. I seconded that pitch and still couldn't go fast enough! I'm sure my technique was poor, the harder you lieback the sooner you will come off! May 6, 2011
Lucas Barth
Devils Tower, WY
Lucas Barth   Devils Tower, WY
Anybody climb this route recently? Is the loose rock danger from the rockfall still there? Oct 23, 2010
Lisa Montgomery
Golden, CO
Lisa Montgomery   Golden, CO
Did this route early June 2009. Excellent! Using 2 60m ropes, we rapped from P6 to P4, then to P2 (required some very easy unroped downclimbing on ledge), then to the ground. I'm not sure about the other raps, but for the last one (P2 to ground), a 70m rope won't get you down. Jun 2, 2009
sean barb
winston salem, north carolina,
 
sean barb   winston salem, north carolina,
 
Great route; although I climbed it before the major rockfall. The lieback corner pitch is really classic; bring doubles in the 1-1.5" stuff. Bring some big cams for the last pitch, its worth it! Dec 18, 2008
Scotty Nelson
Boulder
 
Scotty Nelson   Boulder
 
Recommend extra 1" cams for the 10d lieback pitch. Jun 19, 2007
Greg Barnes
  5.10d
Greg Barnes  
  5.10d
Note on the chopped bolts on the last pitch: we actually only chopped 1 bolt in the offwidth section, the other 2 had fallen out previously. We chopped 2 bolts next to splitter smaller cracks as well: a bolt next to perfect 2" crack on the 10c hands pitch, and the first bolt on the last pitch, which was right next to a perfect 1.5" crack. These bolts next to bomber hand cracks served as a good reminder that cams didn't exist when the route was established, and we couldn't in good conscience replace bolts along a perfect crack that just happened to be 4-5" instead of 2".

This generated a fair bit of controversy at the time (ended by the rockfall), but Harding never would have placed those bolts with modern big cams, and anyone who doesn't want to bring a couple big cams for the last pitch can rap before it -- you rap the route either way.

This is a sweet climb, hopefully the rockfall zone will stabilize itself! Dec 28, 2006
bbrock
Al
bbrock   Al
I went to do this route in August 2006. The first pitch is completly shattered by rock fall(bad pro and loose).Rockfall came flying in as I was almost finished with the first pitch. I can't believe my belayer wasn't killed. We bailed quickly. Stupid Stupid Stupid. If you could get through the first pitch you would be sheltered by the enormous roof above the climb. Dec 1, 2006