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Hand Drills Suck!
5.9,
Trad, 140 ft (42 m),
Avg: 2.1 from 10
votes
FA: Troy Anderson (solo) 2003
Utah
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Fin
> Lower Fin
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
This route climbs a slab up and to the right (east)of the Mormon vault. Start with an old smc hanger in the middle of a slab in the trees. Above this hanger, arch up and left via natural protection. Head towards a clean slab with three new bolts. Above these bolts climb up and right to a two bolt belay. On rope barely gets you back down.
Location
On the approach to the Fin, there is a small opening with a clean slab in it. If you walk to the base of the slab, you'll see the Smc hanger. This is the route.
Protection
small cams, quickdraws, maybe a mid sized cam
USA
SLC, UT