Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Hand Drills Suck!

5.9, Trad, 140 ft (42 m),  Avg: 2.1 from 10 votes
FA: Troy Anderson (solo) 2003
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Little Cottonwo… > Fin > Lower Fin
Warning Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed DetailsDrop down

Description

This route climbs a slab up and to the right (east)of the Mormon vault. Start with an old smc hanger in the middle of a slab in the trees. Above this hanger, arch up and left via natural protection. Head towards a clean slab with three new bolts. Above these bolts climb up and right to a two bolt belay. On rope barely gets you back down.

Location

On the approach to the Fin, there is a small opening with a clean slab in it. If you walk to the base of the slab, you'll see the Smc hanger. This is the route.

Protection

small cams, quickdraws, maybe a mid sized cam

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] It wasn't Troy Warburton who did any of the reporting of this route.....it was me. As soon as I can find my photo's of this line, I will add comments. Troy is a local, who may have dropped out of the climbing scene. I am still involved, but new to this form of communication. Troy and I have never been into reporting FA's for personal glory or ego. I merely started to communicate about this route, just to give relevant history for this climb. Sorry this may have stepped on your toes....... I don't mean to jump on to other peoples parade. I only discovered this FA link as an accident, and noticed that these new routes sounded familiar. I just thought I would share some information. Oct 12, 2006
Stan Pitcher
SLC, UT
 
[Hide Comment] The Granite guide talks about a pin protecting the moves leading to the 2nd bolt (after the long easy run-out). There is no pin. After hauling up a tool and doing some excavation you can get a decent micronut and/or cam. Oct 9, 2017