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Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 3.5 from 14
FA: Lance Bateman, Jim Reynolds, Nolan Wall - 1996
> Wasatch Range
> Central Wasatch
> Little Cottonwo…
> Intensive Care Slab
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Access Issue: The Approach borders on a private area of land adjacent to the church Archives.
DO NOT use the road, as there are cameras and they will see you. Try to avoid knocking looseness onto the road, as that may jeopardize future access.
Starting on a left-trending shelf, angle up this and clip the first bolt. Slab up some thin moves to chickenheads and another bolt. Attain a very cool dike feature, that trends steeply right. Climb this dike clipping the remainder of the bolts until you have to step left off of the dike to get to the anchors. Very exciting moves off of the dike. Extremely fun moves up it.
The second pitch (5.11b) moves right off the anchors and with some up/down movement will clip the two bolts aiming for the tree at the base of the wide crack. Do not feel that you need to go in a straight line as this will make it harder.
Once you gain the tree area there will be one more difficult move up a sloped mantle. Get in the crack. Wide, rough, and very fun with the odd chickenhead.
If you want to skip the second pitch, the first pitch is 5.10b (bolts only) and great in it's own right.
In a thicket of trees at the east end of the Intensive Care Slab
5 bolts on the first pitch, 2 more on the second. Wider gear for the crack. Slings around the tree for the rappel. 60 meter rope preferred for the rappel. 50 meter will work but watch your ends. Rappel off the right edge.