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Routes in Punk Rock

A Guide's Portion of Vino (A Tribute to Will Stanhope) T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Bits and Pieces S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jonny Rotten S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Never Mind the Bollocks S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Right Down the Line S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sex Pistol S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Mary Riedmiller, Keith Ainsworth, Kirk Miller, 2002
Page Views: 1,305 total · 9/month
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Sep 25, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

Jonny Rotten turned out to be a fine route that climbed much better than it appeared from the ground. Boulder a way up for the first clip and then launch into a dynamic sequence moving past the third clip. There is a momentary encounter that seems to be sending the climber into the bird droppings coming from an overlap crack, but the FA team nicely avoided the dung, left the birds alone, and set up a nice move getting established under the roof at 40 ft. Chase the overlaps above for some continuous, well protected climbing. There is a final crux just below the anchor - just don't get seduced into going the wrong way. JR is certainly the best route on the crag and well worth crossing the creek. An added benefit is being away from the sight and sound of the road. Good job by the FA team.

Location

This is the furthest right of three bolted routes.

Protection

About a dozen (11) draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.

Photos

When I put this route up in September 2002, it seemed harder, but it has had a fair amount of traffic and has cleaned up nicely. 11a/b is the consensus I'm hearing lately. The first ascent on this route goes to Mary Riedmiller, Keith Ainsworth, Kirk Miller. Oct 17, 2006
jarthur
Westminster, CO
 
jarthur   Westminster, CO
 
This was a good route. Cleaning it can be a bit of the pain. It definitely had a little bit of everything from balancey face climbing, a great roof crux, delicate slab climbing, to a nice finish out the overhanging arete. I liked the fact that it wasn't a bolt ladder as well. Reminds me of the older bolted climbs in North Carolina and the New River Gorge. Apr 15, 2008

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