Type: Trad, 400 ft, 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Troy Warburton, John Rogers: 1986
Page Views: 283 total · 2/month
Shared By: Over The Hill on Sep 25, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Route Description

Start at the very lowest part of The Fin formation.
Pitch 1: Climb 100 feet up a slab passing three bolts, and gear placements to a two bolt anchor added by Troy Anderson, or continue with original route right of the Hand Drills Suck anchor to an arete on the right with a bolt. make a reachy move to a crack, move up crack for 10 feet, then traverse 15 feet left to a bushy ledge.
Pitch 2: Climb the slab, protected by 5 bolts 5.10. when the bolts end, move left to the ramp that will traverse up and right, and belay at trees.
Pitch 3: Climb crack and face, 5.8 to a belay ledge.
Pitch 4: Climb easy corner face, to an undercling roof. Traverse right under roof, move around edge, and face climb to a belay with a tree.
Pitch 5: Climb up fun face and friction moves. Bolts have been added since First Ascent. Continue climbing to the base of Dorsal Fin.


Pitch 1: 7 bolts, 0.5"-3" cracks, Two 2-bolt/chain stations


Pitch 1: 30 meter Rappel from Hand Drills suck anchor
Pitch 2: A two bolt anchor was added mid point of pitch 2, 30 meter rappel will reach Pith 1 anchor.
Pitch 3 and above: continue up climb to Dorsal Fin, walk west


This route was bolted onsight/by hand/on lead by Troy Warburton & John Rogers in 1986. Troy Warburton did not place a bolt at the crux and fell onto a chickenhead.
Troy Anderson added a 2-bolt/chain station in 2003.
Tony Calderone & John Rogers added 3 bolts and a 2-bolt/chain station in 2007.
Tony Calderone & John Rogers replaced the added brown aluminum hanger with a gray stainless-steel hanger in 2007.


Over The Hill
Over The Hill   USA
Troy and I gave this climb a rating of II 5.10. Pitch 1 was 9+, second pitch 10, third was 8, fourth was 5.6 to the start of the Dorsal fin. There was no set anchor stations, and only 3 bolts total placed. I will post a photo or two as soon as I find my old pictures. I will also take some shots to show where we went. Nov 3, 2006
Over The Hill
Over The Hill   USA
The old 1/4" bolts on pitch #1 are now replaced with nice new rawl 3/8" equipment. 1 bolt was added to the route, at the poor protection flake. This bolt can be used to protect the moves up the flake, or the chickenhead mantle variation that is to the right of it. The route is fun to climb using either variation. The route is still "heady" but the new bolt offers safe protection at a place where "PPP" was the only option. This makes climbing the fin an all day experience, and adds many pitches to an already great location. It is still "grainy" but will clean nicely with further use. Oct 11, 2008
Stan Pitcher
Stan Pitcher   SLC, UT
Nice way to get to Dorsal & Fin Arete. We did Hand Drills Suck as first pitch variation ~100'. Sketchy blind placements on 2nd pitch traverse but crux is very well protected. There is a bolt anchor at top of 2nd pitch. Using this anchor, p3 is a full 200' to ledge/gear anchor (Lyin&Cryin p3 face/bolts can be used as alternative to crack). P4, watch for rope-drag around roof, belay bush is poor can get some gear in ledge to left ~150 feet. P5, 2 bolts on face then scramble to blocks below Fin Arete - 200 feet. Oct 16, 2017
Shadow Ayala
Lexington, KY
Shadow Ayala   Lexington, KY
A very nice warm up for the Dorsal Fin. Do yourself a favor and link pitch 1 and 2. The roof traverse on pitch 4 is fun but the first two pitches are really the meat of this climb. Dec 2, 2017