Type: Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: Troy Warburton, John Rogers: 1986
Page Views: 508 total · 3/month
Shared By: Over The Hill on Sep 25, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Route Description

Start at the very lowest part of The Fin formation.
Pitch 1: Climb 100 feet up a slab passing three bolts, and gear placements to a two bolt anchor added by Troy Anderson, or continue with original route right of the Hand Drills Suck anchor to an arete on the right with a bolt. make a reachy move to a crack, move up crack for 10 feet, then traverse 15 feet left to a bushy ledge.
Pitch 2: Climb the slab, protected by 5 bolts 5.10. when the bolts end, move left to the ramp that will traverse up and right, and belay at trees.
Pitch 3: Climb crack and face, 5.8 to a belay ledge.
Pitch 4: Climb easy corner face, to an undercling roof. Traverse right under roof, move around edge, and face climb to a belay with a tree.
Pitch 5: Climb up fun face and friction moves. Bolts have been added since First Ascent. Continue climbing to the base of Dorsal Fin.

Protection

Pitch 1: 7 bolts, 0.5"-3" cracks, Two 2-bolt/chain stations

Descent

Pitch 1: 30 meter Rappel from Hand Drills suck anchor
Pitch 2: A two bolt anchor was added mid point of pitch 2, 30 meter rappel will reach Pith 1 anchor.
Pitch 3 and above: continue up climb to Dorsal Fin, walk west

History

This route was bolted onsight/by hand/on lead by Troy Warburton & John Rogers in 1986. Troy Warburton did not place a bolt at the crux and fell onto a chickenhead.
Troy Anderson added a 2-bolt/chain station in 2003.
Tony Calderone & John Rogers added 3 bolts and a 2-bolt/chain station in 2007.
Tony Calderone & John Rogers replaced the added brown aluminum hanger with a gray stainless-steel hanger in 2007.

Photos