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Routes in Y-Crack Wall

A Dish to Pass S,TR 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Blinded by Lust S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Dakota Farms Cheese S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Death of A Salesman T,TR 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Eagle Rare T,TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Early Times S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Easy Tower Route T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Green Zipper T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Little Rebel Crack AKA Ezra Brooks T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Little pine T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rebel Yell T,TR 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Straight No Chaser T,TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Ten High T,TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Tower Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
West Face of Tower T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Whiskey Chimney (aka Pigeon Crack) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Whiskey a Go-Go S,TR 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Y-Crack (aka Old and in the Way) T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,395 total, 18/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Sep 24, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

This is the obvious chimmney left of Whiskey A Go-Go. Climb up on good face holds (Gear?) to reach the cleft. There are good holds inside and out on the left towards the top of this section. After that's over, work up two cracks to the anchors of Whiskey A Go-Go. This is a really cool pitch for the grade and the rock quality is good throughout.

Location

Left of Whiskey, Y-wall.

Protection

Wires, Single set of cams. Long draws or short runners for chimmney.

Photos

Jake Weyenberg
Milwaukee, WI
  5.8
Jake Weyenberg   Milwaukee, WI
  5.8
Definitely a great climb. I'm still cutting my teeth on trad though felt like this was a great way to break in my chimney skills. The chimney is short but definitely fun to move through. Very easy to protect this route. Moving into the chimney is easy if you can find the side pulls on either side of the bottom opening. C4 #1 protects to fun movements out of the chimney quite well. Spoiler alert!!! (Best part of the climb)

You can rap off of whiskey a go go's rap rings, though you'll be putting a lot of stress on a single bolt because of how far left the route is from suggested anchor. I suggest a belay from the top and having someone follow to clean the gear then both rapping off of whiskey's anchor to preserve the life of the anchor Jul 17, 2017
Alex Zucca
University Heights
 
Alex Zucca   University Heights
 
It is way easier to exit the chimney over the roof if you are facing to the left. Sep 5, 2016
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
 
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
 
Beta alert: There in fact is good gear to protect the initial pull into the chimney. Right around the start of the chimney there is a bomber yellow C3 placement on the right. Its hard to find it though but if you do you will feel much better. You kinda have to lean way out to the right to see it.

Fun lead. Definitely worth doing! Aug 25, 2015
Very possible to TR this one with a piece placed in the dihedral after the chimmney to help with rope positioning. Jun 1, 2014
Tradiban
  5.8
Tradiban  
  5.8
Known as "Pigeon Crack" in the Ryan Hansen guide book. Jun 11, 2010
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.8+
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.8+
The chimney feels like it's going to spit you out each time you move up. Just a bit flaring. But a great climb! And the dihedral after the chimney is picture perfect! Apr 13, 2009