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New Mexican Crack

5.9, Trad, 120 ft (36 m),  Avg: 1.8 from 6 votes
FA: Randy Kieliszewski and John Higgins, 1992
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Big Cottonwood… > Chips Wall

Description

Climb the easy right-facing dihedral to some brushy ledges. The rock is a little bit chossy here, but the climbing is easy. Climb onto the face to the left and up to the cracks. Traverse to the left, following the cracks for about 50 feet. Be sure to place ample protection to reduce the risk of pendulum falls for both the leader and second. There are some reachy moves on some thin holds. Route finding is a significant crux as is placing pro. The New Mexican Crack sports some of the most fantastic cracks in BCC.

Location

Start in the left-facing corner (there is some water streaking and potential water after storms here). It is possible to rappel from the anchors with a 60 meter rope; however, you won't be able to clean your gear. This route requires the leader to belay from the top (semi-hanging belay from anchors) so that the second can clean gear on the way up.

Protection

Medium to small camming devices, lots of nuts. Consider doubles and possible triples of #.5-#2 camalots. There are two glue-in bolts at the top for anchors (there is an old, rusty button head between the glue-ins and a pin about three feet to the left too). There was an old, sun-baked cordelette with two carabiners on it that I backed up with a sling.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

New Mexican Crack on the right (bottom part of route not visible because it is in a left-facing dihedral) and Chips and Salsa on the left.
[Hide Photo] New Mexican Crack on the right (bottom part of route not visible because it is in a left-facing dihedral) and Chips and Salsa on the left.