Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Randy Kieliszewski and John Higgins, 1992
Page Views: 230 total · 1/month
Shared By: Ryan Brough on Sep 23, 2006
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


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Description

Start with some liebacking in a right-facing flake that diagonals to the right. Don't miss any opportunities for protection, the climbing is easy, but the rock is broken and unpredictable and there aren't many protection opportunities until you reach the first pin. A tricky move gets you into position to begin the roof sequence. Clip the bolt and pull jugs out the roof and try not to get pumped pulling over the lip to gain the cracks on the face above. The roof is certainly the crux, but the climbing above is spectacular. Reachy moves and good footwork on fantastic rock give this climb some flavor. There may be water of the face below the anchors and pools underneath the crux, especially following a storm, but this just makes the climbing all the more adventurous.

Location

Climb up the right-facing flake under the center of the roof band. Aim for the weaknesses in the roof, and you'll find the fixed protection (two pins and a bolt). Pull over the lip and shoot straight up for the anchors. Rappel or lower off with a 60 meter rope.

Protection

Medium to large camming devices for the flake, a small nut or two before clipping the pin under the roof, long runners for the pin and bolt under the roof to reduce rope drag, medium to small camming devices and nuts to get to the top. There are two glue-in bolts at the top for anchors (there is an old, rusty button head between the glue-ins and a pin about three feet to the left too). There was an old, sun-baked cordelette with two carabiners on it that I backed up with a sling.

Photos