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Routes in Wilbur's Tombstone

Killed by Death S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pumped Up Woman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rap Bolters Will Be Prosecuted T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Takes a Thief T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
What a Woman S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wilburs Turning in His Grave S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Eric Odenthal & Chris Miller, May 2003
Page Views: 616 total · 4/month
Shared By: C Miller on Sep 22, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Interesting and featured vertical face past three bolts lead to a ledge, above which the rock bulges slightly. Make some reachy moves and power up a series of flakes to clear the bulge, do a rockover and finish on slabby face to the anchors - Lemmy would be proud.

The crux moves are a fairly reachy and shorter climbers may find the rating to be slightly harder than indicated.

Location

Locate this route about 40' left of Takes a Thief on the left margin of the east face.

Protection

5 bolts, chain anchors

Photos

datbro
5.10b/c
datbro  
5.10b/c
start directly below the first bolt, no cheaters Oct 12, 2013
Euan Cameron
Mammoth Lakes
Euan Cameron   Mammoth Lakes  
I suspect that you are mixing this route up with Wilburs Turning in His Grave which lies just to its left. The crux move on Wilburs Turning in His Grave is a huge reach, and can be easily avoided moving left. May 26, 2008
Jordan Ramey
Calgary, Alberta
 
Jordan Ramey   Calgary, Alberta
 
I agree with Russ. There's no way that move is 5.10a/b unless you go up around left and then reach back right to make the last clip. That's about 5.10a, but not direct. The direct is much harder to get the bucket above the last bolt. Nov 12, 2007
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
 
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
 
A classic boulder problem in the sky. I'm no midget, but the moves over the bulge were miles harder than they look. How hard? hmmmmm... plenty. If you are 6'8" I bet they are pretty easy. May 14, 2007