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Routes in Wilbur's Tombstone

Killed by Death S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pumped Up Woman T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rap Bolters Will Be Prosecuted T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Takes a Thief T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
What a Woman S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wilburs Turning in His Grave S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Chuck Scott, 1992
Page Views: 453 total, 3/month
Shared By: C Miller on Sep 22, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Scramble up low-angled chunky slab to the base of a slightly overhanging smooth sheet of rock that looks much harder than it is. Clip a high bolt and then lauch up the amazing face, which has positive incut edges just when you need them, passing one more bolt to the top. A fall clipping the second bolt may be hazardous to your ankles - so be careful!

There are no anchors specifically for this route so use the anchors on the backside and rap down that face to descend.

The climbing on the upper portion of this route is great, but the amount of actual climbing is woefully short. Were this to be re-bolted and have it's own anchor it might see a fair bit of traffic, but until watch those ankles.

Location

This climbs the center of the Wilbur's Tombstone's impressive west face but unfortunately only involves about twenty feet of difficult climbing.

Protection

2 bolts, chain anchors
edehaven DeHaven
  5.11c R
edehaven DeHaven  
  5.11c R
Great route, just wish it had at least 1 more bolt maybe between the 2 existing ones. As with what the writer says a fall at the second bolt could be very dangerous.
You can TR this route by climbing up the east face and using the anchor from "What a woman". 2 long slings (20' or so) and a few lockers and your good to go.
Makes the route much more fun and safe. Just watch for the swing in the opening moves
Jun 27, 2011