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Routes in Parking Lot Rock

4 star 5.9 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Billy Goat T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cling Plus S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Five O'Clock Shadow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hellbilly T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Horse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jedi Magic S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leech Master T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nice Cleavage T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scape Goat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sleight of Hand T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Smoke and Mirrors S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Cams are Better Than None T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vicki Gill T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: Jim Hammerle, 1991
Page Views: 1,514 total, 11/month
Shared By: C Miller on Sep 22, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Wiggle up the chimney (easy) to reach the start of a splitter right-slanting crack which lies on the left margin of the face with Cling Plus; shares anchors with that route.

Location

Start 10' left of Cling Plus and walk slightly left to locate a semi-hidden chimney system which marks the start of this quality route.

Protection

Gear to 2 inches, chain anchor

Photos

ClimbingNewb
Canyon Country
 
ClimbingNewb   Canyon Country
 
A great entry level trad climb for us new peeps. Some great hands free spots so you have all the time in the world to place gear with zero pressure. I want to say I used a BD #1 leaving the chimney and then smaller gear and an x4 up top. Jun 20, 2017
Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
For full value, at the start avoid the "chimney" and jam the crack with feet on the slab. Jun 1, 2014