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Routes in Parking Lot Rock

4 star 5.9 S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Big Man, Little Man T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Billy Goat T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Cling Plus S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Five O'Clock Shadow S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hellbilly T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Iron Horse T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jedi Magic S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Leech Master T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Nice Cleavage T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Scape Goat T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sleight of Hand T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Smoke and Mirrors S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Two Cams are Better Than None T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vicki Gill T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Rick Shull, 1989
Page Views: 188 total · 1/month
Shared By: C Miller on Sep 22, 2006
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This route is found on the left side of the tallest, most unbroken section of face and is located just left of Five O'Clock Shadow.

Challenging underclings with technical footwork characterize the lower portion of this route, which eases midway after a horizontal crack (optional 1" pro) is passed. The face above the horizontal is much easier and a romp to the top.

Protection

3 bolts, chain anchors (shared with Five O'Clock Shadow)

Photos

Rick Shull
Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV
 
Rick Shull   Arcata, CA & Dyer,NV  
 
Although a handful of topropes and routes existed in Holcomb, this was the first route to be bolted . Brad Henderson had been gold mining in the area and knew I was searching for new crags. He suggested I might want to check out Holcomb Valley. Man, was he right! Oct 13, 2006
Howard
Costa Mesa, CA
  5.11d
Howard   Costa Mesa, CA
  5.11d
Seems like a very height dependent crux. Otherwise, seems like it goes at the Hidden Treasure's grade of 11d at least. Sep 20, 2018

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