[Hide Comment] I loved this route. It's surprisingly pumpy pulling through those final pockets on the final headwall! Sep 27, 2006

[Hide Comment] You guys are easy with the stars. I'm pushing to give it 3. It's a good route though. 65 feet !? I'll bet it's 50 max. Aug 15, 2008

[Hide Comment] Great Route! Appears to be recently rebolted with glue-ins. Anyone know what type of bolt the second glue-in is? Really thin in comparison to the others. I'm not saying anything is wrong with that bolt; I'm just interested in what it is. Saw a similar one on another route or two at Wild Iris (first bolt of Limestone Cowboy). Jun 17, 2014

[Hide Comment] The really thin glue-in bolt that you are asking about is titanium. Sam Lightner has been rebolting routes in Lander, and he has been using glue-ins. Some of the first routes he rebolted, he used titanium bolts left over from his days in Thailand. Jun 19, 2014

[Hide Comment] Hi Guys.
The Bolt and Anchor Replacement Fund, which is part of the Central Wyoming Climbers Alliance (handles access, rebolting, youth climbing programs, and of course the International Climbers Festival) is the rebolting agent here. We use a host of bolts, most of them glue ins.

In this case we did not use Titanium, though it does look that way. These bolts are thinner and harder to see than the fat Fixe bolts, but they are actually stronger. They are made of 6mm 316 SS and have a 40 kilonewton, about 9000 pounds, strength ratting. Thats almost twice your average light weight carabiner. The bolts are made by Jim Titt in Germany. You will also see Fixe glue ins and Wave bolts from Climbtech, but also the occasional 1/2 inch SS powers five piece.

For what it is worth, we do need financial help with this. Give to the BARF program if you can. Each route costs about $100 to replace with this gear. We had one of the bolts on Wind and Rattlesnakes break while it was being removed, to give you some idea of the corrosion level. We hope to have the entire area done in another three years, funding provided.

Have fun. See you at the crag.
Sam Jun 12, 2015

[Hide Comment] I used a DEEP pocket by a bolt on the route to the left to get through the crux. Felt wrong with the different route's bolt right there, but it also makes it flow well and is well within an arms reach Jul 12, 2020

[Hide Comment] youtu.be/LmTF7Lt42LE
BTW my friends asked if they could write “Venga” on my back in sunscreen… they didn’t. Jul 19, 2021

[Hide Comment] R/unpopularopinions: this is pretty stout for a 5.12a, even a forty-foot one. Surprisingly beta-intensive and bouldery. A proud onsight for someone else ... took me six burns to redpoint, many more than usual. STELLAR stone and movement, and amazingly, not too polished yet. Jun 2, 2022

[Hide Comment] Beta if anyone cares to see it.
youtu.be/PajQKVcgduM

Great route! Jul 15, 2022

[Hide Comment] Short person beta: youtu.be/SEl71z4iqeg Jul 19, 2022

[Hide Comment] Beta for fellow Long Gang members:
youtube.com/shorts/Y75hasqF… May 26, 2025