Type: Trad, Alpine, 265 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Don Reid and Chris Falkenstein, July 1981
Page Views: 6,313 total · 40/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This is an obscure but ultra-classic two-pitch climb on the outskirts of Tuolumne Meadows. It sits by itself (actually there are two or three other climbs of lesser quality) far above Ellery Lake which in turn is just a few miles outside of the park along Hwy 120. Park, cross the dam, and hike up the steep, loose slope to the lowest tongue of rock that is usually guarded by a steep patch of ice/snow. Why did you endure this grueling 45 minute slog for just two pitches?

P1: Ascend a beautiful pitch of crisp, white Sierra granite. The crux is bouldery but well protected with a small cam and some wires. Up higher its nice to have a very large cam to protect some wide cracks, but this section is quite easy. A final, wild move around the corner to the right leads up to a bolted belay. 5.10+.

P2: Start directly (sketchy gear and rock) or move right then back left (a bit dirty). Climb the long, leaning, overhanging splitter via jams and liebacks. Sandbag 5.11b; outstanding!

Two double-rope rappels from nice ASCA hardware gets you back down.


Single set from 0.2 to #4 Camalots, 3 each 0.75's & #3's, wires, a few draws/slings. A #4.5 Camalot (#5 C4) not mandatory but highly recommended. Two ropes. The route is north-facing and can be chilly in the wind.