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The Dike Route

5.9 R, Trad, Sport, 5 pitches,  Avg: 3.5 from 76 votes
FA: Gerughty, Evje, & Meeks - 1966
California > Yosemite NP > Tuolumne Meadows > Pywiack Area > Pywiak Dome
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

The Dike Route follows an obvious system of (generally left-leaning) dikes up the right-hand end of Pywiak Dome. It is a great climb, but not for the faint-of-heart. Be very confident running it out on slabs -- the crux fourth pitch has the potential for 60-80' falls on 5.8 terrain in two different places, and a 30' fall on 5.9 ground. The other pitches are easier, but still very sparsely protected.

P1: Climb a long gradually steepening slab to a bolted anchor at a stance on the dike. This stance is roughly where two dikes intersect to form a cross. 5.4.

P2: Continue up the dike past a bolt and step left to another dike. Follow this up to a bolted anchor on a big ledge. 5.6.

P3: Follow the dike up past three bolts to another bolted anchor. 5.7.

P4: Continue upwards past a pair of bolts (old anchor) and then run it out on 5.8 terrain up to a steep bulge. Pull this bulge on good holds and continue relatively straight up to a thank-god bolt. This bolt is hard to spot -- it's pretty much straight up, perhaps slightly to the right of the last belay, but don't stray too far in that direction. After clipping this bolt there is a stretch of 5.9 (crux) climbing through some gold polish before finally reaching a bolted anchor.

P5: An easy pitch up to a bolted belay below the final headwall. This can be breached via a wide crack, but most parties rap from here with double ropes (follow the Needle Spoon route on the descent).

Protection

Five or six draws.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

dykey
[Hide Photo] dykey
[pano] P3, I think
[Hide Photo] [pano] P3, I think
Route Overlay for Dike Route
[Hide Photo] Route Overlay for Dike Route
A late day climber on the dike route.
[Hide Photo] A late day climber on the dike route.
Unknown climber free soloing the Dike Route
[Hide Photo] Unknown climber free soloing the Dike Route
Dike Route
[Hide Photo] Dike Route
Dike Route, 5.9 R ©
[Hide Photo] Dike Route, 5.9 R ©
perfection in fall
[Hide Photo] perfection in fall

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Ol Toby
CA
  5.9 R
[Hide Comment] Beautiful line. A delicate dance up beautiful granite. Sep 12, 2008
Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.9 R
[Hide Comment] Even more R when you can't clip the bolt on the very polished upper part of P4 (really difficult to see because all the crystals glint in the sun, just like bolts) and your belayer gets the rope jammed. E1 5a in UK terms. May 8, 2009
Eric Foltz
California
  5.9 R
[Hide Comment] Lead this a few years back. Never did see the last bolt on P4 and ended up running it out to the anchors. Still one of the best routes you'll find this close to a road. May 21, 2009
Dave Alden
Sacramento, CA
  5.9 R
[Hide Comment] Nice line, right up the obvious dike on the dome. Bolts are spaced a bit far apart on the faces. Last pitch is the best. Feb 28, 2011
the professor
  5.9 R
[Hide Comment] I too, never saw the mythical bolt on P4. The runout was at least 50 feet of mostly 5.9. Scary! Jun 7, 2013
Will Stat
  5.9 X
[Hide Comment] This is one of my proudest leads in Tuolumne. Pitch 4 didn't seem to have a distinct crux, it was a bunch of 8+/9 climbing on insecure slab features with huge runouts. Personally I think this route deserves an R/X rating, and P4 should be treated like an X rated climb. Sure, the rope will eventually catch the leader, but you can get really messed up in an 80'-100' slab tumble. Good luck riding that down safely, especially if you miss the second bolt. Keep cool, don't fall, and enjoy one of Tuolumne's best 5.9 slabs. What a line! Jun 25, 2013
DJ Reyes
Northern Nevada
[Hide Comment] I did this with my brother many years ago. We were supposed to swap leads, but every time it was his turn he looked up and said "You Lead." The crux pitch had me blabbering like I was gonna die. I did make it and was pretty stoked! I remember sometime later doing some routes at the Bunny Slopes and watching a progression of 5 or 6 parties attempt this route and to the last they all bailed off before doing the crux pitch. That made me feel pretty good!! Jun 5, 2014
Matt N
Santa Barbara, CA
 
[Hide Comment] As Ed H on Supertopo advises: think where would you stop to put in a bolt on the FA? The final bolt is up and right of the bulge, in a divot/depression area. Easy to find when you know where to look.
If not topping out, you can rap with a 70m. Jul 26, 2015
Oliver Abbitt
Santa Paula, California
[Hide Comment] Great route on superb granite. As good as a mini crest jewel.
BOLT BETA: I too missed the thank god bolt on pitch 4 but saw it once I was at the anchor. To reiterate- it is about 10 feet to the right once you pull the 5.8 bulge. Look for a natural trough in the wall that's good to stand in with a black xenolith in the middle. The bolt is at your face once you are on the black spot. There's no reason to miss it, and with that bolt the 5.9 climbing is scary but not shit your pants scary! Sep 15, 2015