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The Dike Route
Trad, Sport, 5 pitches,
Avg: 3.5 from 76
FA: Gerughty, Evje, & Meeks - 1966
> Yosemite NP
> Tuolumne Meadows
> Pywiack Area
> Pywiak Dome
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
The Dike Route follows an obvious system of (generally left-leaning) dikes up the right-hand end of Pywiak Dome. It is a great climb, but not for the faint-of-heart. Be very confident running it out on slabs -- the crux fourth pitch has the potential for 60-80' falls on 5.8 terrain in two different places, and a 30' fall on 5.9 ground. The other pitches are easier, but still very sparsely protected.
P1: Climb a long gradually steepening slab to a bolted anchor at a stance on the dike. This stance is roughly where two dikes intersect to form a cross. 5.4.
P2: Continue up the dike past a bolt and step left to another dike. Follow this up to a bolted anchor on a big ledge. 5.6.
P3: Follow the dike up past three bolts to another bolted anchor. 5.7.
P4: Continue upwards past a pair of bolts (old anchor) and then run it out on 5.8 terrain up to a steep bulge. Pull this bulge on good holds and continue relatively straight up to a thank-god bolt. This bolt is hard to spot -- it's pretty much straight up, perhaps slightly to the right of the last belay, but don't stray too far in that direction. After clipping this bolt there is a stretch of 5.9 (crux) climbing through some gold polish before finally reaching a bolted anchor.
P5: An easy pitch up to a bolted belay below the final headwall. This can be breached via a wide crack, but most parties rap from here with double ropes (follow the Needle Spoon route on the descent).