Type: Trad, 3 pitches
FA: Bard & Locke - 1976
Page Views: 11,752 total · 68/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006
Admins: M Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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This is the obvious finish to OZ, but the FA team didn't climb it until a year later. Some have said that the rock is sketchy on this climb, but overall it is quite good and this shouldn't scare anyone away. The climbing on Gram is physical whereas the climbing on OZ is more technical -- a nice contrast and finish to the route.

After finishing the third pitch of OZ, continue as follows:

P4: Climb up off the belay through some very powerful laybacks and underclings to a stance. The climbing eases here until a bolted belay is reached below some hanging blocks. 5.10d.

P5: Runner your gear very well and still expect to deal with rope drag. Continue traversing under the roof with a few cruxy downclimbing sections of 5.10c or so. One can belay off of bad gear or at an uncomfortable stance, but it is perhaps better to turn the roof at it's end and continue to the top. Keep in mind this involves climbing a long passage of 5.5 knobs without much gear. An awesome, exposed conclusion to the climb. 5.10c.


Standard rack. Nice to have a #3 Camalot for the start.