Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 6 pitches
FA: John Tuttle, Drew Davol, Vince Depasque 1986
Page Views: 98,934 total · 460/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 21, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

Please do not climb as of August 23, 2023. Per the Yosemite Climbing Rangers, "A new crack system appeared overnight and there is concern that a major rockfall could happen. The park Geologist will be assessing the scene and we will keep you updated on any further changes." See here for closure.

The "Serenity-Sons" combo may be the best 5.10 crack climb in the Valley... it is just so, so good. Why anyone would do one without the other, I don't know, but since they are technically two separate routes, they are listed as such.

Sons of Yesterday is the flawless continuation of the climb.

P4: Depending on where you belayed, climb a long pitch of easy terrain past a short steep section of 5.10a thin hands to an airy belay perch on a small tree.

P5: A long pitch of 5.9 in a right-facing corner. Belay at bolts.

P6: Steep 5.9 jamming through a little roof. Belay at bolts.

P7: A wild pitch of 5.9 "walking" along a leaning crack leads to a final stretch of 5.8 fists to an anchor. A sweet pitch.

P8: Follow two bolts on the slab over two bulges to a bolted anchor and the start of the rappels.

Two Rappel options: 

Rappel to climber's right of the route - 13 rappels total, only a 60m is required. You must finish the slab, pitch 8, and you must rappel to the anchor under the tree farther to the right (do not go to the anchor you can see from pitch 6 and 7). Link to rappel route here.

Rappel the route - 70 meter rope required.   Descend along three fixed belays without challenge.  The forth rap does NOT reach the fixed anchor at the start of the route. Rather the rap ends at a tree which may be backed up with a couple of medium cams.  The ropes are about 12 feet/4 meters short of the first bolted anchor on Sons of Yesterday.  Rap from the tree to the half-dead tree and the to the main ledge above Serenity.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack. Include a wide hands piece.

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