Type: Trad, 500 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Bill Sorenson, Jack Delk 1967
Page Views: 42,234 total · 270/month
Shared By: Lee Jensen on Sep 20, 2006 with improvements by Aaron Rickel and 1 other
Admins: M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Access Issue: Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron Details
Access Issue: Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions Details

Description

On the east side of the apron a great finger crack ascends in a rightward sloping direction. Easy protection on a moderate angle make this a classic beginners route.

Pitch 1 - (5.5) Go directly up the easy slabs along a left facing dihedral until it is overlapped by a right facing one. Continue up into the crack.

Pitch 2 - (5.6) Follow the crack as it slowly slopes to the right. At one point perfect double finger cracks open up.

Pitch 3 - (5.6) Continue up the crack until it fades out then either go up and left (easier) or go directly to the double bolt anchors across the face (a bit more difficult).

Descend the route by rapping the bolt anchors on The Grack - Marginal (if it is clear). This can be done in two raps with two 60m. Make sure you use the second bolt anchors if attempting to do it in two raps. If Marginal is crowded then you can go to the south (climbers left) and rap off blocks and trees.

*Update As of 2018 There are now bolted rappel anchors allowing for rappel with a single 60m rope, though it is 5 rappels to bottom. You will see them on the slab at climber's right as you ascend the crack system.

Location

The simplest approach that we found was RIGHT at the A-Frame hut and Ranger Circle. From the parking lot, take the main walking trail in the southeast corner for about a quarter mile until you reach the A-Frame hut and Ranger Circle. Head straight toward the wall from here and you'll pick up an obvious climber's trail that heads up the hill to the base of the climb.

Protection

Gear to 2 inches with a focus on small nuts and cams.

Photos