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The Grack - Center
5.6 YDS 4c French 14 Ewbanks V UIAA 12 ZA S 4b British
Avg: 3.4 from 898
votes
Routes in 3. The Grack Area
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[Redacted] T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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A Mother's Lament T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R |
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An Udder Way T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Bear, The S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Cow-Center Route, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Cow-Left Side, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cow-Right Side, The T 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c |
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Grack - Center, The T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Grack - Left Side, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Grack Wrong T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Grack, Marginal, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Grack, Right Side, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Hoppy's Favorite T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Jack the Zipper T,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Ochre Fields T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Psychic Energy S,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Tightrope T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a R |
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Transistor Sister T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Valley Hizeman T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
| Type: | Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Bill Sorenson, Jack Delk 1967 |
| Page Views: | 62,048 total · 275/month |
| Shared By: | Lee Jensen on Sep 20, 2006 · Updates |
| Admins: | Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
Access Issue: Rockfall danger higher than usual on Glacier Point Apron
Details
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
On the east side of the apron a great finger crack ascends in a rightward sloping direction. Easy protection on a moderate angle make this a classic beginners route.
Pitch 1 - (5.5) Go directly up the easy slabs along a left facing dihedral until it is overlapped by a right facing one. Continue up into the crack.
Pitch 2 - (5.6) Follow the crack as it slowly slopes to the right. At one point perfect double finger cracks open up.
Pitch 3 - (5.6) Continue up the crack until it fades out then either go up and left (easier) or go directly to the double bolt anchors across the face (a bit more difficult).
Descend the route by rapping the bolt anchors on The Grack - Marginal (if it is clear). This can be done in two raps with two 60m. Make sure you use the second bolt anchors if attempting to do it in two raps. If Marginal is crowded then you can go to the south (climbers left) and rap off blocks and trees.
*Update As of 2018 There are now bolted rappel anchors allowing for rappel with a single 60m rope, though it is 5 rappels to bottom. You'll see them on the slab at climber's right as you ascend the crack system.
*Update as of 8/2023 You should no longer use a 60m single to rap due to the first rap station's bolt being sheared off by rockfall (there is still one hangar/chain that looks unscathed). The other rap stations have been compromised due to damage from rockfall.
Location
The simplest approach that we found was just past the A-Frame hut and Ranger Circle. From the parking lot, take the main walking trail in the southeast corner for about a quarter mile until you reach the A-Frame hut and Ranger Circle, go about 100 feet more then head straight toward the wall from here and you'll be on the obvious climber's trail that heads up the hill to the base of the climb. When you reach the base of the slabs go climbers left and choose lower start or continue 50 feet left to walk up to low ledge.
Photos
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