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Routes in Aerial Anticipation

Aerial Anticipation S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Dallas Morning News TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Death by Departure T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b X
Shake Your Groove Thing T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 955 total, 7/month
Shared By: Craig Childre on Sep 18, 2006
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Access is always an issue here. Details

Description

Climb the low angle ramp left of Aerial Anticipation. Crux is turning the moves up on the corner. Then angle over to the AA Chains

Location

Just left of Aerial Anticipation.

Protection

Gear, Chains.

Photos

I'm not sure about the rope drag complaints. I'll say this, if you're cool running it out a little bit, it's worth not protecting at the left-most part of the traverse before moving back right so there's a little less drag, and as Brent said, use full shoulder length runners to reduce the drag. just my two cents. more fun than i expected. Feb 22, 2011
Brent Butcher
  5.7
Brent Butcher  
  5.7
ROPE DRAG! I think I extended every piece any still had terrible rope drag. Crux move (which is near the top(12ft left of the anchors) heading back towards the anchors) is not protected well. Nov 18, 2010
I have mixed feelings about this route, it was a choss fest with great exposure and heinous rope drag. Crux moves are protected piss poorly. The rock is extremely hollow, I wouldn't trust it. I ended up making a new line and going further around the corner up a ramp. I had to dig out a crack to protect it. The moves there felt harder than 5.6 (but most Wichita 5.6's do). Although the rock was dirty, the route was exposed and the rope drag horrid, I think I like the route. Just make sure it's the last climb you do for the day as your rope is going to get wet. Apr 26, 2009
Steve Marr
Colorado Springs, CO
 
Steve Marr   Colorado Springs, CO
 
Fantastic climb - fun climbing, some interesting moves above the roof, great exposure, and a free rappel back to the water at the base of the route. Take care not to get your rope too wet. Nov 7, 2006