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Penny Standard (aka Right of Penny Pincher)

V2+, Boulder,  Avg: 2.6 from 47 votes
FA: Tom Painter, mid-'80s
Colorado > Ft Collins > Horsetooth Rese… > Rotary Park > Pitch Penny Boulder
Warning Access Issue: Larimer County DNR Regulations DetailsDrop down

Description

The crux is getting off of the ground, keeping shoulders and tips intact.

Location

This problem lies just right of Penny Pincher on Pitch Penny Boulder. The left hand starts on the ear of Penny Pincher and right hand on sloper on right leaning seam. Gaston each, and levitate with the right foot to access the pocket. Crimping akin to Penny Pincher top ensues.

Protection

None.

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Penny Standard.
[Hide Photo] Penny Standard.

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JF M
NoCo
[Hide Comment] This one is referred to as "Penny Standard**** V2" in the NCCC Horsetooth guidebook (#81, p. 27, Cross & Scott, 2009).

Sitting start requires either an immediate lunge-type move to the right-hand side-cling, or a slower, more balanced approach. Attaining the side-pull is the crux. Dec 15, 2010
Dylan Bargteil
Washington, DC
[Hide Comment] It seems to me that the Penny Standard in NCCC Horsetooth guidebook is actually labeled on Mountain Project as "My Two Cents" ( mountainproject.com/route/1…). There's nothing in the NCCC guidebook that suggests a double gaston start on this face as described above. Oct 15, 2019