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Tulip Crack

5.11 V4, Trad, Boulder, 20 ft (6 m),  Avg: 3.8 from 5 votes
FA: Justin Edl and Eric Christiansen, 2003
Wyoming > Vedauwoo > Buford
Access Issue: Bad Bolt Submission Form Details

Description

This is undeniably one of the best boulder problems in Vedauwoo, and I think one of the best anywhere. It's a perfect, right-leaning splitter that goes from stacks to fingertips with a nice tricky jug up top. The rock is really fine grained, some of the best granite at Vedauwoo. It also has a V6 variation, The Bush Eater, put up by Jeremy Medley, that starts on the right on a hand jam. You reach up to the big obvious patina flake and move left into the crack - very cool. Both versions move really neat, and both are must do problems.

Location

Park as for Fingorilla. Walk down the road for a couple hundred feet and head up to the boulders on the left. It's on one of the first boulders and faces east.

Protection

Pads and skill. The cruxes are at the bottom for the regular Tulip Crack and going for and getting into the crack on The Bush Eater variation.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Pam looking on as Langston onsights her project, setting the stage for a beautiful fall season at Vedauwoo.
[Hide Photo] Pam looking on as Langston onsights her project, setting the stage for a beautiful fall season at Vedauwoo.
Langston attempting The Bush Eater variation.
[Hide Photo] Langston attempting The Bush Eater variation.
Langston onsighting Tulip Crack.
[Hide Photo] Langston onsighting Tulip Crack.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dan F
  5.11 V2 PG13
[Hide Comment] This thing is 100% awesome. Concur on one of the best problems at Vedauwoo Sep 5, 2009
JNE
  V4
[Hide Comment] Here is a beta video: youtube.com/watch?v=x30FB0y…. Aug 10, 2020
A-W
[Hide Comment] For those with slightly larger than average hands, this is a fist crack with one stack to start and is very straightforward. With average to small hands, the climbing becomes much more entertaining. Great problem. Aug 26, 2020
JNE
  V4
[Hide Comment] A-W: if one has large hands and gets the problem done with one stack, I'm going to say it is very likely said individual started by stepping off the boulder to the left of the climb as opposed to starting stepping off the ground, or they are taller and reached as high as they can reach to get the first stack. This is a beta difference and not a size difference, because in either case, an invert is not needed, and instead a single knee lock will take one to the constriction where even people with average sized hands can get secure teacup fists if they reach deep enough. Either option skips some very fun climbing at the start of the problem, which is the invert and the part that gives the grade. If skipping the invert, IMO light V3/5.11, or even V2/5.11-, is appropriate depending on hand size. Aug 28, 2020
A-W
[Hide Comment] Interesting...will have to go back and play around some more. Aug 31, 2020