Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Gateway Rock

A Little More Hoof S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drive By Shooting S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flake Out S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Forest S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Garden Wall T,S,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
General Mayhem S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Green Thumb S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Major Distraction S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Portal S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Road Rage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Woof Toof Noof Roof S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 62 ft
FA: Cam Burns, Mike Schillaci on gear in the late 80s. Retro-bolted in 2011 by unknown person.
Page Views: 3,501 total, 26/month
Shared By: Jason Halladay on Sep 17, 2006
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


84 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

A steep, featured, route with cool tufa-like rails on the far right side of Gateway Rock. Figure out how to pull up off the ground to a chalked-up tooth and then get to a crack where a .5 camalot previously protected steep moves. Now a couple of bolts protect it. Continue up on nicely featured face and crack climbing passing a number of bolts as the crack gets wider (fist size) and steeper. You don't need crack skills, however, as there are plenty of nice features to grasp along the way.

This route was initially climbed on gear and rated 5.11b by the FA party. Consensus suggests it's easier and in the spring of 2011 the route was bolted by an unknown party and a anchor added so gear is no longer necessary. The gear was pretty marginal and this is a very fun line so it sees quite a bit more traffic now with the bolts. It's not clear whether or not the bolter tried contacting the FA party or even realized this was an established line (although given the length, fun moves and busy location, one should have suspected it had been climbed previously.)

Location

Far right side of Gateway Rock just right of Road Rage.

Listed as route #7 on route topo photo for Las Conchas Gateway Rock.

Protection

9 bolts to its own anchor with steel carabiners on chain.

Used to require BD camalots .4 to #3. Doubles in the .75, 1 and 2. Maybe some medium nuts too. Used to be you would need to move left to the anchors on Road Rage at the top without much issue.
This route was named for a brilliant young climber, Forrest Fukushima, whose father Eiichi was on the first ascent of Mt Vinson and many other important climbs. I never told Eiichi about this natural, beautiful climb named for his son, and was waiting for a guidebook to mention it, and was then going to send a copy to him. Forrest died cycling. He was killed by a young driver near the ski hill road. Eiichi, his brother Craig, and David Hayes had to go and identify the body. Forrest was a remarkably talented climber. I went climbing with him all over NM before sport climbing happened and this natural line seemed a fitting thing with which to honor him. Now, I'm embarrassed. I'm not into this bolt-the-planet stuff. Why does absolutely everything have to be bolted? Why do bolters think their way is better? I believe this climb was published in the 1991 (or so) Samet/Jett guide, which I was asked to be a coauthor on (but I decided I didn't need to be). Aug 3, 2017
Andrew B. Ellis
  5.10c
Andrew B. Ellis  
  5.10c
Fantastic route! Wonderful movement, and I think this is one of the gems at the grade for Las Conchas.

I did not get to climb it before Owen extended it. I do hope the top will clean up with more climbs - it was a bit dirty at the anchors. I did appreciate the length of the route though- it now seems to be closer to 65 feet? Jul 16, 2017
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.10b
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.10b
This climb's history regarding bolts (documented above), is unfortunately reflective of a general lack of respect and lack of communication by climbers with drills toward other climbers (other bolters, or gear climbers, past and present, and even other sport climbers).

These days, it's easy to track down the FA, send them an email, and post a note publicly here or on one of the NM climbers FB groups sharing your plan, before you change an existing climb (this is generic, not regarding this route in particular or meant at Owen or anyone in particular). For instance, I could have pointed you toward who I think bolted this. I'm not saying we ought to go to Eldo-style fixed hardware review. There have been now quite a few instances in recent years where well-intentioned "fixing" of 15-20 year old climbs (adding bolts, adding a very close new climb, or aggressively cleaning) has unintendedly changed things such that some other climbers (sometimes myself, sometimes others) have been disappointed by the change, and it seems to be happening more often. Off-line, I'd be happy to share other examples from El Rito, elsewhere at Las Conchas, White Rock, the Dungeon, the Ortegas, Diablo, the Sandias, and Socorro. (I am not suggesting the changes to "Forest" or those other routes should be "undone"! Nor that stupidly bolted climbs should always remain poorly bolted.).

There are certain climbs in our nearby areas that I would be bummed if someone moved or added bolts to, or deliberately broke slightly loose holds off of, and I (and I'm sure others) would like the opportunity to share reasons why before any such actions occur, rather than gripe after the fact knowing it isn't really worth changing things again or creating hard feelings. Let's all (myself included) try to do better to include the broader NM community in decisions that change well-established climbs; sites like MP and FB groups allow for that in a way that wasn't possible 15 years ago.

Respectfully, George (and I know various other experienced local climbers who've shared with me this general sentiment)

------------------
Great climb though (and sounds like it's better now)! Would have been fun to have led it on gear without the opportunity to clip the bolts if I got scared, but I know not many people would want to do that, and I do appreciate it as the good sport climb that it is. Jul 12, 2017
Owen Summerscales
Los Alamos, NM
  5.10c
Owen Summerscales   Los Alamos, NM
  5.10c
I decided to move the anchor a little higher on this classic which adds another bolts worth of decent climbing in character with the rest of the climb, enables a far less awkward anchor clipping position and puts the anchor in a better line with the rest of the route. Given that the original bolter is unknown, I did not consult anyone other than other local climbers who agreed it was worthwhile. I hope to get back and give it a second scrub, for now the top is clean enough and will definitely improve with traffic [update 7/26—scrubbed multiple times now, just needs more traffic now].
This is one of my personal favourite routes in the Jemez, amazing flowing pinches that I could never tire of climbing. I always thought the only negative was the weird premature finish, which hopefully now is fixed. There are now 9 bolts on this route, but most people don't use the first one. Jul 11, 2017
Narwhal Lo
Durango, CO
  5.10a
Narwhal Lo   Durango, CO
  5.10a
Awesome route! So much better with bolts! May 12, 2014
Ben Burnett
Colorado
  5.10b/c
Ben Burnett   Colorado
  5.10b/c
I agree, best route on the wall. I prefer trad, but this would be crappy on gear. Always ask before you drill, though. Sep 22, 2013
CJK
Northern, NM
  5.10b/c
CJK   Northern, NM
  5.10b/c
Best line on the wall!!! Aug 12, 2013
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.10
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.10
For reference, Cody first worked Mainliner on bolts for a few day before sending it as a sport climb. He then used the bolt to figure out how to get enough and good enough gear for him, someone who climbs 3 letter grades harder, to feel comfortable leading the pitch without the use of the bolts.

So while Cody's ascent is quite impressive it still relied heavily on the use of bolts. Aug 16, 2012
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
  5.10a/b
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
  5.10a/b
And yet, Mainliner goes clean.
Climbing.com
Cody Roth: "I do hope that my ascent will be an example of new school creative trad climbing, and that it will encourage others to consider climbing in this low impact style, and to think twice before sinking bolts." Jun 8, 2012
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  5.10
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  5.10
Best route on the wall. Jun 3, 2012
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
  5.10b
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
  5.10b
All egos aside. This is a superb route whether done naturally, or clipping the bolts. It is always respectful to check with the FA folks but not always an option. Either way the route kicks butt and gets more traffic with bolts installed. We as climbers have to be able to adapt to change. It is different now than it was in the eighties, and standards will continue to change. If you want opposition and battles, join the army. Apr 26, 2012
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
 
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
 
JeremyA wrote:You should've chopped the bolts as well.
I really hate to see bolting and then chopping "wars" nearly as much as I don't appreciate someone adding bolts to an existing line so I didn't take it upon myself to chop the bolts. I hope if someone decides to chop the new bolts, they'll first contact the the FA party to get their opinion. I know Cam Burns, Camster (Rhymes with Hamster) , frequents MP so contacting him would be easy. And for all we know, the person that added the bolts may have contacted Cam or Mike prior to the additions. I'm told something like that happened at Tres Piedras a few years back when the first ascensionist of many routes there went back and added a bolt or two to one of his routes, and shortly thereafter a couple people, without checking with said FA first, promptly chopped them.

Personally, having led this route on gear years before the bolts were added, I found the gear pretty inadequate in chunky rhyolite. It's a very engaging line with cool features and it's really just a lot of fun when not worrying about the gear placements not holding should you fall.

That said, should the FA be displeased with the added bolts and desires someone do the dirty work of chopping them, I'd appreciate the hangers back for upgrading aging hardware on other Northern NM routes. Nov 27, 2011
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
 
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
 
I swapped out the first five hangers on this route with colored/painted hangers today since the route is in a high non-climber-traffic area. Nov 26, 2011
I second the opinion on not adding bolts to an existing line without consulting the FA party. I found the gear adequate on this route. Nov 10, 2011
I had no idea this was an established route prior to seeing the bolts. Based on the poor rock quality I wouldn't have thought about leading this on trad. I guess I would be ticked if I was into leading routes with poor rock quality on gear. But you can always trad climb at Diablo. The Side-by-Side bolting at the bottom dosen't make any sense to me. Jun 24, 2011
William Penner
The 505
William Penner   The 505
The drills can never be silent

That piece of stone is already way over-bolted. Go find a new area or develop other sections of Las Conchas that are less used. More importantly don't bolt an existing line.

W Jun 13, 2011
The drills can never be silent. Jun 13, 2011
HoseBeats
  5.10b
HoseBeats  
  5.10b
Very fresh bolts. There is an extra second bolt; clip the left one. Much easier than 11a, 10b?. Jun 12, 2011
Chris Wenker
Santa Fe
  5.10a/b
Chris Wenker   Santa Fe
  5.10a/b
Freshly bolted; appears to have happened sometime in the last 3 weeks? Jun 11, 2011
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
 
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
 
I added this route to MP so I can't give an "opinion rating" but having led it today I'd call it 5.10b R. The R is on account of the poor rock for pro. The placements were plentiful but I had a hard time mentally committing to the thought that the rock in the cracks would hold up if I fell. I ended traversing left a couple of times to clip bolts on Road Rage with double-length runners as a backup if the pro failed. Otherwise, it's a fun line with entertaining climbing. Nov 22, 2008
This note is good for historical use but the rock isn't good and I have been told that rock has broken during a fall. Apr 1, 2008