Avg: 3.5 from 74 votes
|Type:||Sport, 62 ft|
|FA:||Cam Burns, Mike Schillaci on gear in the late 80s. Retro-bolted in 2011 by unknown person.|
|Page Views:||3,581 total · 26/month|
|Shared By:||Jason Halladay on Sep 17, 2006|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionA steep, featured, route with cool tufa-like rails on the far right side of Gateway Rock. Figure out how to pull up off the ground to a chalked-up tooth and then get to a crack where a .5 camalot previously protected steep moves. Now a couple of bolts protect it. Continue up on nicely featured face and crack climbing passing a number of bolts as the crack gets wider (fist size) and steeper. You don't need crack skills, however, as there are plenty of nice features to grasp along the way.
This route was initially climbed on gear and rated 5.11b by the FA party. Consensus suggests it's easier and in the spring of 2011 the route was bolted by an unknown party and a anchor added so gear is no longer necessary. The gear was pretty marginal and this is a very fun line so it sees quite a bit more traffic now with the bolts. It's not clear whether or not the bolter tried contacting the FA party or even realized this was an established line (although given the length, fun moves and busy location, one should have suspected it had been climbed previously.)
LocationFar right side of Gateway Rock just right of Road Rage.
Listed as route #7 on route topo photo for Las Conchas Gateway Rock.
Protection9 bolts to its own anchor with steel carabiners on chain.
Used to require BD camalots .4 to #3. Doubles in the .75, 1 and 2. Maybe some medium nuts too. Used to be you would need to move left to the anchors on Road Rage at the top without much issue.