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Pie In Your Eye

5.6, Sport, 30 ft,  Avg: 1.8 from 72 votes
FA: bruno-cx
New Mexico > Jemez Mountains… > Las Conchas > Cattle Call Wall Area
Access Issue: 2019 Santa Fe National Forest Temporary Closure Order Details

Description

A short, easy sport route to chains. Makes for a good beginner sport lead although the spacing between the last two bolts is spicey (but the climbing is easy.)
Many options for the start exist but starting right of bolt line and then moving up and left is easiest.

Location

Listed as route #6 on route topo photo for Las Conchas Cattle Call Wall.

Protection

Originally three bolts to chains but reportedly retro-bolted to four bolts at point. 

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Cody getting started up <em>Pie in Your Eye</em> on his second time leading. Aug 30, 2008.
[Hide Photo] Cody getting started up Pie in Your Eye on his second time leading. Aug 30, 2008.
Christian on the ledge at the top of Pie In Your Eye.
[Hide Photo] Christian on the ledge at the top of Pie In Your Eye.
Cody (age 5) on his 2nd time leading. I ascended a fixed line next to him to make sure he was doing everything right. Aug 30, 2008.
[Hide Photo] Cody (age 5) on his 2nd time leading. I ascended a fixed line next to him to make sure he was doing everything right. Aug 30, 2008.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.5
[Hide Comment] Great introductory climb and/or beginner lead. Fun for kids too! Jun 14, 2007
[Hide Comment] Good first sport lead, and (as I discovered today) it can be led on gear. A #2 takes care of the bottom, and a couple of creative small nut placements can be had as well. Not really worth the hassle of hauling out the rack, though. Sep 10, 2008
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.6
[Hide Comment]
Minesh Bacrania wrote:Good first sport lead, and (as I discovered today) it can be led on gear. A #2 takes care of the bottom, and a couple of creative small nut placements can be had as well. Not really worth the hassle of hauling out the rack, though.

Don't tell Sonnie Trotter or those bolts might get chopped! :) Sep 11, 2008
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
  5.5
[Hide Comment] The real Pie In Your Eye ascends the diagonal leftward crack system to the right of this bolted route. It is a trad route and use to have two bolted anchors at the very top of the wall. I think they were chopped at some point. Sep 3, 2009
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.2
[Hide Comment] Further complicating things, Rock Climbing: New Mexico lists a climb called 'Pie in Your Eye' as being in the location that Jason's photo and 'Jemez Rock' put 'Bovine Inspiration', and rates it 5.9. That book calls this line 'Unknown 4' and rates it 5.6. Sep 23, 2009
[Hide Comment] This is a fun little climb. Great for young kids who are just beginning to climb, like you all said. I would definitively bring the kids I watch up here and put them on this one first. I soloed this, I'm not a great climber but it is easy enough to solo. Jun 30, 2010
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.2
[Hide Comment] Has 4 bolts. Not sure how recently it was retrobolted or which bolt is new, been a few years since I last climbed it. I doubt any one has ever fallen on this climb on lead. Apr 21, 2019