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Trad, 120 ft,
Avg: 3.7 from 337
FA: G. Smith, R. Snider
> Red River Gorge
> Graining Fork Nature…
Access Issue: Access to GFNP (Roadside) REQUIRES a Daily Permit
Please DO NOT climb at GFNP (Roadside) without a daily permit per climber in the group. After a long closure, access to Roadside was made possible again in March 2015 under the name Graining Fork Nature Preserve. This access is contingent upon climbers being good stewards and obtaining a daily permit via the GFNP website.grainingfork.org/ For the sake of the access privilege it is imperative that climbers follow this rule and obtain the daily permit.
***Climbers MUST NOT climb at GFNP without a daily permit per person in each group.*** This route is privately owned and requires a daily per-user permit obtained from the Graining Fork Nature Preserve website. This isn't about just you getting away with climbing for a day without a permit--this is about the climbing community respecting private land to ensure continued access privileges. Don't be selfish--get a permit.
A beautiful dihedral crack. Scramble to a ledge with bolted anchor for optional belay. Then jam, stem, and lieback past to the top to another bolted anchor/belay.
This crack protects extremely well. Doubles in hand sizes (maybe even 3 #2 Camalots) and a large cam (#6 C4) is helpful if topping out. There is a bolted belay anchor about halfway up if you want to make it 2 pitches. There's another bolted anchor at the top (where folks used to belay and rappel off slings around a tree.) Rap the route with a single 60m rope but tie knots in the ends of the rope.
The route is the obvious huge dihedral where the approach trail meets the wall. To get to Roadside Crag drive about 6 miles South on KY 11 from the rest area and park on the right. The trailhead is across the street, and a short approach leads to the base of the wall.