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To Defy the Laws of Tradition
5.10-,
Sport, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 3.3 from 846
votes
FA: Porter Jarrard, Chris Snyder, Jeff Moll 7/1992
Kentucky
> Red River Gorge
> Northern Gorge
> Left Flank
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.
Description
A great pocketed route with lots of chalk up a slightly overhanging face. The technical crux is down low; the enduro crux is up high.
Protection
The route is well bolted and has a bolted anchor.
Location
This route is located on the Left Flank wall, and is the left-most route on the crag, about 20' left of a striking 5.12a arete. To reach Left Flank, take 77 East through the Nada Tunnel, then 1 more mile East to the Martin's Fork trailhead on the left. Cross the street and take the Military Wall/Left Flank trailhead, then bear left at the Y.
[Hide Comment] if i recall, as you climb between the 5th and 6th bolts, you'll notice a hanger-less bolt. the space left between them is big (not really big enough to warrant another bolt, though), maybe 15 ft. definitely instruct your belayer on soft catches, as there is potential for swinging into the bulge down low and coming away with a damaged foot.
definitely a spectacular route. a good introduction to solid 10a climbing.
Oct 14, 2008
[Hide Comment] One of the most fun 10's i have ever climbied. the crux is trying to figure out which pocket to grab when almost ALL of them are chalked up. enjoy!
Jan 11, 2011
[Hide Comment] Haha boltergeist is an entirely different climb, not to mention in an entirely different region... I am not sure why you are comparing the two, one is vertical pockets while the other one is slab.
Thats like saying "I like this climb but Rock Wars is a much better 10a." Apples to oranges.
Oct 20, 2011
[Hide Comment] OK, legit point. I seem to remember reading somewhere To Defy is considered by some as one of the best 10a in the whole of RRG. In my book, it isn't. Perhaps an over reaction on my part.
Oct 20, 2011
[Hide Comment] I thought this route was great! The none of the holds were polished, but the first foot holds were wet even though it hadn't rained. The water seemed to be seeping from the bottom of the cliff. Very consistent 5.10a/b all the way to the anchors
Jul 25, 2013
[Hide Comment] Oct 13, 2013 While pretty easy if you've got a 5'10' or so APE, this route is totally overrated. The pretty fun climbing up higher doesn't make up for the muddy start and height dependent crux. Easily .10c if you're shorter. Not quite sure what all the fuss is about.
Nov 24, 2013
[Hide Comment] I agree, obiss, at the risk of pissing more people off. I am a shade under 5'5", the climb felt .10a/b to me but that was a while back. Chalk city up high on the route. Yuck.
Nov 25, 2013
[Hide Comment] Probably one of the better 10a's i've done so far. Cool, technical moves, and a slightly overhanging finish make this a classic. Good intro to the grade. Yes, there is an excessive amount of chalk on the holds, but the moves are good enough that I didn't mind too much.
Aug 18, 2014
[Hide Comment] Been a classic since day one. It is getting polished on the first third, which is making it more interesting as time goes on.
May 16, 2019
[Hide Comment] STELLAR. This has to be one of my favorite routes at the red for the grade range. I found there to be an incredibly thoughtful move low on the route that required a delicate high foot and high reach from an undercling (probably because I'm 5'7"). The rock quality is slightly polished but this doesn't take away the quality of movement. You'll climb on every variety of rock to the chains. I'd happy climb this every time I visit Left Flank.
Oct 31, 2019
[Hide Comment] The first third of the route seemed hard for the grade and kept me focused on balance and foot placement. Could have been moisture from recent rain. Turns into one of those classic RRG feel-good sends.
Apr 29, 2021
[Hide Comment] The bomber stainless steel glue-ins were much appreciated on this route. There are a lot of rusty bolts in the Red, but this crag seemed to have more rust than the others. This route was the exception.
Apr 11, 2023
Avg: 3.3 from 846
votes
Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest.
Details
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Dolores, CO
definitely a spectacular route. a good introduction to solid 10a climbing. Oct 14, 2008
Chattanooga, TN
Lander
Thats like saying "I like this climb but Rock Wars is a much better 10a." Apples to oranges. Oct 20, 2011
Keene, NY
Salt Lake City
I am a shade under 5'5", the climb felt .10a/b to me but that was a while back. Chalk city up high on the route. Yuck. Nov 25, 2013
Ottawa, On
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