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Routes in Rusty Ring Wall

Arete Action S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Barely There S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
FINAL STRAW, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Half Hearted S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Kingdom Come S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Rusted Ring Right S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rusted Rings S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Whitney's Revenge T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport
FA: JJ Schlick
Page Views: 145 total · 1/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Sep 16, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

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Description

This is the short, steep arete on the left hand side. Though short, it starts 30 feet off the deck so at least you get some added exposure. Climb arete. The crux comes early on at the second bolt layaway/laybacking to a jug. You will need a little more than a half hearted try to finish it off.

Location

Left side

Protection

Four bolts to a two bolt anchor. At the base of the line below the first bolt you can get two opposed nuts to keep the chances of "crotching" to a minimum.

Photos

Tradiban
  5.11c
Tradiban  
  5.11c
Pretty good line. Start on the left face after clipping the first bolt with a right hand on the arete. Stay on the left face until you are on the jugs, then utilize hold on both the right and left of the arete.

No holds on the right face for the first two bolts. Maybe they broke off JJ? Jul 31, 2011
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.11
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.11
This route is much more burly and pumpy than it looks like it should be for being so short.

I ripped off a large side pull jug at the very top with a loop of rope in my mouth to clip. Satermo kept me off the ground, barely. Thanks buddy! Oct 15, 2012
ChrisFrayer
Platteville, Wi
5.11b
ChrisFrayer   Platteville, Wi
5.11b
You can also do a variation starting to the right of the first bolt only using holds on the right face up to the 4th bolt. A bit contrived, but fun and about 11+ish. Oct 16, 2012
Chris treggE
Madison, Beersconsin
  5.11
Chris treggE   Madison, Beersconsin  
  5.11
I wondered if anyone had done that. It seemed very thin, but I did not try it. Oct 16, 2012
A buddy took a bad fall on this Friday 9/1 and we had to ditch his draws for the time being.

We're coming back for them soon, please treat em like permadraws till then and leave them up.

Check your knots... Sep 2, 2017

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