Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: C. Tabor & J Wilburn
Page Views: 6,179 total · 41/month
Shared By: Mike on Sep 16, 2006
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


146 Opinions

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Description

A nice, easy handcrack in a left-facing dihedral with great jams and pro. Most people skip the second pitch and rap from bolts at top of first pitch ~50' up.

Protection

This crack eats up hand-sized pieces and has a bolted anchor at the top of the first pitch.

Location

Locate the left-facing dihedral just right of the Central Scrutinizer slab and about 20' left of the large, ominous looking offwidth flake.
Chris Chaney
Stanton, Kentucky
 
Chris Chaney   Stanton, Kentucky
 
Tight hand crack, takes #.75 and #1 camalots well. Sep 27, 2006
Dave Goodell  
 
The crack widens to take a C4 #3 right before the crack leans right and becomes much more positive. IIRC the rest of the crack is pretty solid C4 #1 below that, so make sure to bring enough gear in that size range. Oct 26, 2011
Andy Weinmann
Silver Spring, MD
  5.7+
Andy Weinmann   Silver Spring, MD
  5.7+
You can do the whole thing in one pitch if you're sure your second won't blow the easy traverse up into the upper v-slot/roof. Set a long runner on the first anchors and traverse right to underneath the slot roof. Sink a #3 cam in a horizontal (not in the roof!) and then maneuver yourself up into the slot. Some chimney moves get you fully up in there. There's a bomber nut placement up there on the right and then you can move up and get a marginal jam so you can clip the anchors. The top is a little tricky to find a good stance and it's not a good place to fall so don't screw up.

On the way down, swing over to the 12a and set the draws on that line…then go get your crimpy sport-climb on! Apr 3, 2014
James Schroeder
Sauk County, WI
  5.7+
James Schroeder   Sauk County, WI  
  5.7+
Tight hands down low. This might feel a little harder than 5.7 if you've got big paws. Nov 28, 2016
Alex Zucca
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
Alex Zucca   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.8
This thing is better than Roadside Attraction. It's a more continuous crack, better jams, and better footholds. Get on it. Jul 2, 2017