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Remedy
5.12a/b,
Sport, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 3.4 from 10
votes
FA: JJ Schlick 2006
Wisconsin
> South
> Fishin' Crag (C…
> N Wall
Description
This pitch was a temporary remedy for the chronic itch of finding new routes, as well as, the situation with the abandoned, old timey glued holds on the steep face right of the route. A very nice line with two distinct cruxes. Start on scruffy rock to reach the first bolt, then out onto the main face. The first crux comes at the third bolt and is a mix of sidepulls and deadpoints.
At the middle of the route soak up the rest as the top half is quite steep by WI standards. Climb jugs on the arete past two bolts. The third bolt on the arete is a hard clip and right at the begining of the second crux. Cranking on some small holds and divots will set you up for the throw to distant jugs. Enjoy the easier climbing to the top.
When you are lowering off take a look at the rediculous botch job to the right. Four ugly glued holds were abandoned by their creator. Probably out of self loathing. One of these holds is close by at the crux, though I didn't use it on the FA. These holds are a good example of what not to do when developing routes. There isn't even a line where they are at. It’s just too stupid. Anyhoo, I ripped the one bolt that was over there, and whoever is responsible for this mess should be ashamed of themselves.
Location
Middle of the north wall.
Protection
Seven bolts to a two bolt chain anchor.
[Hide Photo] Remedy. Photo doesn't do it justice. I will get some better ones soon.
[Hide Photo] Dave Groth working out the low crux.
Portland, OR
Portland, OR
Platteville, Wi
I set this up by rapping off chains that are just right of the end of Buddha Bukstein Crack. Rapping off those and angling left (if facing the rock) will get you to the chains for Remedy. Aug 4, 2011
I thought 12a but the first crux can be low percentage. Nov 8, 2011
Flagstaff, AZ
Platteville, Wi
Perhaps with the broken foothold this is reachy and hard without using the glued holds? Unfortunately, maybe it's better to simply include the glued holds and downgrade this to hard 11. May 18, 2012
Platteville, Wi
Prying certainly has a place in route development depending upon local ethic / rock type / rock quality / etc. I can't remember exactly what the glued holds look like - though I was slightly appalled. Just trying to think of a way to 'Remedy' that colossal f-up. May 18, 2012
Anyway I think whomever climbs this from now on can choose to climb it with or with out the glued hold as we can't erase the past on this one.
All in all a minor blemish on an otherwise great climb in a great WI satellite crag. May 18, 2012
Flagstaff, AZ
Chris, if you are still in the area, those things might come off with a simple whack of a hammer. At this point that epoxy is probably close to twenty years old, and may have a light bond with the actual patina on the stone. Manufacturing is one thing, but those holds were fucked from the beginning and like I said, abandoned by their creator.
And Nick, pry bars are used all over in new route developing. It's a fact of life. Sep 8, 2013
Flagstaff, AZ
As far as where the line is drawn, after 20 some years of putting up new routes my rule for such is pretty simple. If the hold in question flexes under finger or foot pressure, I pry it off. Not every hollow sounding hold or flake needs to go, but I've seen way to many close calls from holds breaking. The danger coming not only from the falling climber, but also from the falling "hold" depending on the size of it.
I see you talking about ethics quite a bit on MP Nick, and I guess I don't quite follow your thinking all the time. I just don't want people beliving you're speaking god's only truth just because you adhere to the "way of the crusty old trad dude". There are many "ways" to travel in this sport, and I think it's important for people to hear different sides of the story. Sep 11, 2013
Live as you will, argue for fun, climb forever. Sep 12, 2013