Avg: 3.3 from 6 votes
Routes in North Wall
|An Eye For an Eye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Bucky's Paradise (formerly "Unknown far left") S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Buddha Bukstein Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Just The Fad V-easy 3|
|Panacea Roof S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Remedy S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a|
|Turn the Other Cheek T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Walk The Line T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Sport, 60 ft|
|Page Views:||1,429 total, 11/month|
|Shared By:||JJ Schlick on Sep 16, 2006|
|Admins:||Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE|
DescriptionA very nice line with two distinct cruxes. Start on scruffy rock to reach the first bolt, then out onto the main face. The first crux comes at the third bolt and is a mix of sidepulls and deadpoints. At the middle of the route soak up the rest as the top half is quite steep for WI standards. Climb jugs on the arete past two bolts. The third bolt on the arete is a hard clip and right at the begining of the second crux. Cranking on some small holds and divots will set you up for the throw. Jugs to the anchors from there.
When you are lowering off take a look at the rediculous botch job to the right. Four ugly glued holds were abandoned by their creator. Probably out of self loathing. One of these holds is close by at the crux, though I didn't use it on the FA. These holds are a good example of what not to do when route developing. There isn't even a line where they are at. It is just fucking stupid. Anyhoo, I ripped the one bolt that was over there, and whoever is responsible for this mess should be ashamed.