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Routes in North Wall

An Eye For an Eye T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bucky's Paradise (formerly "Unknown far left") S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buddha Bukstein Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Just The Fad V-easy 3
Panacea Roof S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Remedy S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Turn the Other Cheek T,TR 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Walk The Line T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: JJ Schlick
Page Views: 1,285 total, 9/month
Shared By: JJ Schlick on Sep 16, 2006
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


24 Opinions

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Description

This route as described is an amazingly good warmup. At the far left side of the North Wall is an unknown bolted line. Start out right of the first bolt on small holds. Climb up to reach a left diagonal rail feature. At the third bolt do a balancey move left to reach the arete. Climb up to the crack past another bolt and then follow crack to a set of anchors with a nice stance. The original bolted line continues way left over the bulge and into slabby neverland. Don't forget to look for jugs on the left side once in the crack.

Location

Far left side of the north wall.

Protection

Four bolts, some hand sized cams and wires.

Photos

Doug Hemken
Madison, WI
Doug Hemken   Madison, WI  
Do you mean the face at the top of "Turn the Other Cheek"? or around the corner to the left? Aug 1, 2016
Crimp Shrimp
  5.9
Crimp Shrimp  
  5.9
after the anchers, I tried to lead up the chimney then right onto the highest vertical face and up and over. I had a good mix of small nuts to protect the daunting top out but did not trust the rock quality to hold if I blew it so i down climbed back to the ledge. Would be nice to have that upper section bolted as there is some really nice climbing and its very majestic looking from the bottom. Aug 1, 2016
Joel Allen
La Crosse, WI
 
Joel Allen   La Crosse, WI
 
If you want, you can clip the anchors for pro and climb through the awkward chimney for some extra 5.7 fun.

Such a great route! Apr 24, 2016
John W. Knoernschild
Wisconsin
  5.10a
John W. Knoernschild   Wisconsin
  5.10a
This route is super unique and a ton of fun. A great bouldery beginning into some slab, than and arete, to a crack! This route has it all! Jun 23, 2010
Tradiban
  5.10a
Tradiban  
  5.10a
Nice warm up, bring a #3 C4 and you are good to go to the chains with one fixed nut on the way. Jun 17, 2010