PRINT: Rock Climb Scabies, Red River Gorge

Scabies

5.9+, Sport, 40 ft (12 m),

Avg: 2.5 from 189 votes
FA: unknown
Kentucky > Red River Gorge > Northern Gorge > Pebble Beach

Access Issue: New route development is prohibited in the Daniel Boone National Forest. Details

fs.usda.gov/activity/dbnf/r…

Follow existing trails and climb using removable protection or in climbing areas with existing approved fixed anchors or bolts. Development of any new rock climbing, bouldering or rappelling areas and development of any climbing routes involving the permanent installation of new fixed anchors or new trail construction requires prior Forest Service authorization.

Description

Climb the bolted flake between two moderate cracks for 40' to shuts at the top. A nice change of pace from most sport climbs at The Red.

Protection

4 bolts in 40' to shuts at the top.

Location

Starts about 10' left of Zambezi Plunge.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Scabies (5.9+) at Pebble Beach in the Red River Gorge. Photo by Kelsey Gray.

lily...

Moving to the chains on Scabies.

Holly getting through the fright of scabies

View of Scabies (5.9+)

Scabies was a cruise compared to the trad business

A stimulating lead.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

saxfiend
Decatur, GA

5.10a

This really is a super fun lead, very different from the typical RRG sport route. Good footwork is pretty crucial, but it's all there if you keep your eyes open.

The finish may feel desperate, especially if you try to clip while hanging from the very loose and dirty top ledge. I found a fist jam to clip the anchors. Oct 29, 2009

Andrew R.
Linden, VA

5.9+

Warmed up on this route. It gave me the hebbie jebbies. Maybe thats why the call it scabies. FYI anchors are good now. Dec 5, 2013

Mason Print

5.9+

The rock where the right anchor is glued into cracked when I clipped into it. Apr 8, 2018

Vaughn Vargo-Alevras
Ann Arbor, MI

5.9+ PG13

Crack through the right anchor, and a hairline through the left. Apr 22, 2018

Derrick Colberg
Louisville, KY

5.10-

Short, to the point, some cool moves. Prep for the last two moves by thinking ahead. Feb 17, 2019

Thodor Snadler

I have already reported this route on Badbolts but there is a pretty severe stress fracture now running through three of the anchor bolts. Please use caution when climbing this route as I do not think it gets much lovin' May 28, 2019

Charles DuPont
Portland, ME

This route has red tape on the bottom (old) bolt, but appears to have been recently rebolted with bomber glue-ins. Not sure why the red tape or the one old bolt are there at this point, everything looked good to me. Mar 28, 2021

Caleb Bailey
Travelers Rest

5.9+

Fun flake climbing very bomber glue ins even the anchors were clean old bolt with red tape on the bottom don’t let this be a detour it’s a great route Nov 5, 2023

Patrick Becerra
Madison Heights, Mi

This route is harder than it looks, but use it as bait to get your sporty friends to come belay you on Brontosaurus. Nov 6, 2023