Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Brian Shelton and Stewart Green, August 2004
Page Views: 1,072 total · 7/month
Shared By: C P on Sep 16, 2006
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This is a tough route, especially for the grade; broken handholds since its conception easily bring the rating to the 5.10a/b range. Begin with easy moves to a traverse, followed by thin moves to a thin ledge with a tough pull to a good handhold near the anchor.

Location

The route is on the southern side of Wiggins Wall; follow the trail to Wiggins Wall, and follow the line of bolt that goes to the left. It shares a belay anchor at the bottom with The Youth (5.10b) and Green Squared (5.10c/d).

Protection

7 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor.

Photos

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Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
5.10a/b
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
5.10a/b
This route imo is much harder than any other 5.9+ in RRCOS and some 5.10a routes. Three distinct cruxes. First one is at the first bolt, the next one is at the third bolt, and the last is the sprint to the anchor. Jan 7, 2009
Yeah, I agree, Phil. I did this the other day and thought it was 5.10a-ish. The line has cleaned up a lot with the loose stuff off now. It's named, of course, for an early Earl Wiggins and Jimmy Dunn route in Fringe of Death Canyon at Indian Creek Canyon. Earl led this long 5.11 layback, couldn't get any nuts in (pre-cam days), and it was 70 feet before he finally got something in. When he came down, he said he had been on "the fringe of death." Jan 10, 2009