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Routes in Cheap Wine Wall

Boston T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dome Driver S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hartford T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kracken, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
MD 20/20 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Newark T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ripple S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
TJ Swan S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Sport
FA: Dick Holmes and Jack Harvey
Page Views: 5,355 total, 39/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Sep 15, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

Ripple is a fantastic, sustained slab route located on the far right side of the Cheap Wine Area (when facing the wall). To find the climb follow the trail at the base of the wall past the end of the overlap (the same overlap with the notch on the left side - see Boston). Where the overlap "merges" into the wall forming a short headwall is the crux on T.J. Swan. A few more feet along the wall and you'll come to a boulder/slab leaning up against the wall. Ripple starts from the top of the slab. Climb a shallow, left-facing groove past the first bolt. Continue up the namesake ripple (thinner than it looks) past a final steep section (crux) to the anchors. The climb is well protected with six bolts, but they are far enough apart to keep the climbing exciting. The climbing does not let up until you reach the anchors. The best option for descending is to traverse left and down to the T.J. Swan anchors and rap with a single 60m rope from there (a 50m rope would require some downclimbing). Fun, worthwhile route.

Protection

Seven or eight draws to a 2 bolt anchor.

Photos

Heidi Riley
Santa Fe, NM
Heidi Riley   Santa Fe, NM
using the quicklinks at the top of ripple, 60m rope gets the climber about 4 feet from the flake if the belayer lowers from the tip of the flake, then it's an easy scramble down. Apr 10, 2016
Tommy G.
Killeen, Texas
Tommy G.   Killeen, Texas
No real need to place gear low (unless you're really feeling the butterflies I guess). I was psyched on the semi-desperate moves through the inital two bolts, but wish it didn't ease up quite so much above. I was just right of the first bolt as I moved up and over to the second. That felt natural. Very well protected by any standard. Sep 30, 2014
mattm
TX
  5.9
mattm   TX
  5.9
Good Route - Fun, delicate moves. Just the right amount of pro (gear/bolts) to make this feel "real" but not run out. A good intro into harder face/slab climbs without being a horror show. Get on it!

Not sure this deserves the "5.9+" rating. 9+ is kind of a "special" grade reserved for old school climbs that are more than likely a sandbag. It's 5.9

There a TWO sets of anchors available at the top. A set to the left with QLs on it and a set of Fixe Ring Anchors up higher and right (above the ledge on the boulder). It's 40m down from the FIXE RING ANCHORS to the GROUND right of the Ripple Start (base of Ambulance Blues etc). Apr 30, 2013
marc rosenthal
Canyon Lake, TX
 
marc rosenthal   Canyon Lake, TX
 
The crux is at the second bolt, but these moves are well protected by the first bolt. Many climbers follow the left-facing series of flakes out right but if you fall here you are in for a bad little swing. The first bolt protects moving straight up the slab on edges and crystals. If you fall here, the drop is straight down the slab and a lot less risky than a pendulum. Jan 31, 2012
ben bryan
Wichita Falls, TX
 
ben bryan   Wichita Falls, TX
 
Great Route. If you want extra pro for the start you can get a cam in the left facing groove. Oct 28, 2009