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Routes in Cheap Wine Wall

Boston T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dome Driver S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hartford T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kracken, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
MD 20/20 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Newark T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ripple S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
TJ Swan S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
FA: James Crump
Page Views: 2,217 total, 16/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Sep 15, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

Hartford is a two pitch route that begins just right of Boston. Look for a tree along the overlap to the right of the notch on Boston. Hartford begins just below and left of the tree.

P1. Climb the thin slab past a single bolt aiming for a point on the overlap just to the left of the tree. Pull the overlap using big holds to gain the slab above. Thin slab climbing leads past three more bolts to anchors located just below the Beer Can Alley.

P2. From the anchors, step right and climb past three bolts to a ledge with a tree on. The climb gets a little confusing above the ledge as you can see a number of bolts that belong to different routes. The actual line continues straight up and then veers slightly to the right passing three additional bolts. The anchors are on a sloping face.

Rappel the route to get back to the ground.

Protection

Four bolts on P1 with an optional hand/fist sized cam at the overlap. Six bolts on P2. Both pitches have anchors.

Photos

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mattm
TX
 
mattm   TX
 
P1 - Climb the Slab with one bolt up and just left of the tree. Clip a bolt above the overlap and pull onto the face above. Honestly, which bolts above belong to DD and which are Hartfords are a bit murky. I move up and right heading towards the double bolt anchor in Beer Can Alley clipping what ever feels right. ~28m

P2 - From the anchors, walk up and right on the large flake. Pull off the flake onto the face above clipping the 1st bolt on P2. (Those uncomfortable with the move might want to put gear in the flake below as the swing would be nasty). Continue straight up the slab to the anchors past bolts 2-6. ~45m

Pitches 1 and 2 can be linked in one LONG but fun pitch with an 80m.

Note - P2 to P1 rap is 45m! Neither a 70m or 80m will make it!

If you rap off P2 and angle down and RIGHT towards the MD 20/20 anchor it's ~39m. Feb 28, 2016
Stan Jones
Benbrook, TX
  5.8
Stan Jones   Benbrook, TX
  5.8
After you pull the overlap, look left for the next two Hartford bolts. The Dome Driver bolt is more obvious, but it's to the right.

Hartford shares the P2 Anchor with Boston.

2 Ropes for P2 Rap (approx. 130 ft). 1 60m rope for P1 Rap. Dec 4, 2010
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.8
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
  5.8
A fine route. Fun little mantle after clipping the 2nd bolt. Nov 9, 2009
This route requires a 70Meter rope. Mar 11, 2009