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Boston
5.7,
Trad, 2 pitches,
Avg: 2.2 from 23
votes
FA: John Conrad, Steve Sansom
Texas
> Enchanted Rock…
> Main Dome
> Cheap Wine Wall
Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset
Details
Rule Changes Concerning Pets at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area to Take Effect March 1.
Beginning March 1, new rules will take effect at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area designed to balance the need to better protect sensitive natural habitats atop the rock, including the vernal pools, and still allow visitors to continue to enjoy central Texas’ most popular destination with their pets.
Starting Tuesday, pets will only be allowed in specified camping areas, day-use areas and the Loop Trail. Pets will no longer be allowed to accompany hikers on the Summit Trail that ascends to the top of Enchanted Rock.
Most trails, including the Summit Trail, are closed 30 minutes after sunset, allowing park visitors to view the sunset and safely descend to the parking lot. The Loop Trail is the only trail open after sunset to gain access to the primitive camping areas.
For more info:
tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/… 830-685-3636
Description
Boston is a fun two pitch route that marks the far left side of the Cheap Wine Wall. It is located just right of the flake/overlap that divides the Cheap Wine and Devil�s Slide areas. To find the start of the climb, look for a prominent notch in the overlap approximately 30 feet above the ground.
P1. Climb the poorly protected slab to the notch (there is a decent stopper placement about 2/3 of the way up the slab to protect these opening moves). Once at the notch, look for a bomber #2 Camalot placement inside the notch and then pull through the overlap on big holds (fun moves). Continue up the face above the overlap past a couple gear placement and two bolts before reaching the anchors at a ledge with a tree and a large flake.
P2. Climb the flake (large gear, #3.5 or #4 Camalot) to the top where it ends at a second smaller tree. From the top of the flake, follow a black, unprotected water streak to the anchors. While the upper section lacks pro, the climbing is easy and the angle eases off as you get higher.
To descend, rap with two ropes back to the P1 anchors. As second two rope rap will get you to the ground. When we climbed the route, we had a single 60m rope and had to downclimb the last 10 feet of each pitch.
Protection
Light rack with a set of stoppers and small to medium cams. Take one larger piece (#3.5 or #4 Camalot) for the flake on the second pitch.
[Hide Photo] The noticeable flake to the right of the P1 anchor. Marks the start of P2.
[Hide Photo] Rapping off Boston. The notch in the overlap is to my right.
Kernville, CA
Kernville, CA
Benbrook, TX
Benbrook, TX
The most obvious hold on the right side of the notch cracked when I pulled on it and seems loose. Use caution.
When we pulled the rope from the P2 anchor, it stuck at the top of the flake and required a reclimb/down-climb. This can be avoided by traversing to the Kracken anchors before rapping or rapping to Hartford P1. Nov 1, 2010
Also, "the second smaller tree" mentioned in the description above is now just a dead stump. Jan 30, 2014
Driftwood, TX
TX