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Routes in Cheap Wine Wall

Boston T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Dome Driver S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Hartford T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kracken, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
MD 20/20 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Newark T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Ripple S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
TJ Swan S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: John Conrad, Steve Sansom
Page Views: 2,238 total · 15/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Sep 15, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

Boston is a fun two pitch route that marks the far left side of the Cheap Wine Wall. It is located just right of the flake/overlap that divides the Cheap Wine and Devil�s Slide areas. To find the start of the climb, look for a prominent notch in the overlap approximately 30 feet above the ground.

P1. Climb the poorly protected slab to the notch (there is a decent stopper placement about 2/3 of the way up the slab to protect these opening moves). Once at the notch, look for a bomber #2 Camalot placement inside the notch and then pull through the overlap on big holds (fun moves). Continue up the face above the overlap past a couple gear placement and two bolts before reaching the anchors at a ledge with a tree and a large flake.

P2. Climb the flake (large gear, #3.5 or #4 Camalot) to the top where it ends at a second smaller tree. From the top of the flake, follow a black, unprotected water streak to the anchors. While the upper section lacks pro, the climbing is easy and the angle eases off as you get higher.

To descend, rap with two ropes back to the P1 anchors. As second two rope rap will get you to the ground. When we climbed the route, we had a single 60m rope and had to downclimb the last 10 feet of each pitch.

Protection

Light rack with a set of stoppers and small to medium cams. Take one larger piece (#3.5 or #4 Camalot) for the flake on the second pitch.

Photos

Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.7
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
  5.7
Since the posting of this route page, Boston has since been 'retr-bolted'. Was surprised to see a bolt on the opening 10' before the large overlap/roof.....then another bolt just over the lip of the overlap. Couldn't tell what the manufactured bolt/hanger combo was....hex wrench bolt heads (epoxied) with foreign hangers. Nov 9, 2009
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
  5.7
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
  5.7
Additionally, there is a line of bolts on the face above after the start of pitch #2. They're positioned to the left of the large crack/flake for Boston. First bolt is 15' off the ground. They look "newish". 'Newark' (5.9R) is 8' to the left of those bolts. No topo supports what this variation is. We climbed them as a variation to Boston (instead of climbing the crack/flake). Felt 5.9-. Nov 9, 2009
Stan Jones
Benbrook, TX
  5.7
Stan Jones   Benbrook, TX
  5.7
The line of bolts to the right of the Boston notch in the overlap on P1 is a route called "The Kracken" that shares the P1 anchors. The bolts on the face above the P1 anchors to the left of the Boston flake is the P2 continuation of "The Kracken". Kracken ends up at anchors between Dome Driver and Boston. Jan 4, 2010
Stan Jones
Benbrook, TX
  5.7
Stan Jones   Benbrook, TX
  5.7
There is a perfect pink tricam placement in the first pocket on the face below the overlap.

The most obvious hold on the right side of the notch cracked when I pulled on it and seems loose. Use caution.

When we pulled the rope from the P2 anchor, it stuck at the top of the flake and required a reclimb/down-climb. This can be avoided by traversing to the Kracken anchors before rapping or rapping to Hartford P1. Nov 1, 2010
Superclimber
  5.7 PG13
Superclimber  
  5.7 PG13
I don't think any of the gear before the first bolt is very useful or reliable. For example, the small placement before the overlap quickly becomes useless as you climb higher. Furthermore, the flakes at the notch are rotten. If you fall on a placement here you may have a huge flake following you to the ground. What few opportunities exist after the overlap and before the first bolt are no better. The first bolt is about 60 feet off the ground. Regardless, this is a really fun climb and worth doing. But you must not fall!

Also, "the second smaller tree" mentioned in the description above is now just a dead stump. Jan 30, 2014
Climbed today. Only 1 bolt to flap. One bolt on flap, to the right of the v-notch & sketchy flakes. We stayed to the right of the sketchy left facing flake, as there was lots of chalk on fun steep moves over the flap. Rest of P1 was sport bolted. Our 70m rope barely made it to the ground (actually just made it to the top of the flake leaning against the bottom) with rope stretch from the P1 anchors. If you try this, don't forget to knot your ends and make sure your ends are even. Mar 3, 2017

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