Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: John Conrad, Steve Sansom
Page Views: 3,238 total · 18/month
Shared By: Steve Marr on Sep 15, 2006
Admins: Hank Caylor, mattm, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Rule changes for pets and trail closures 30 minutes after sunset Details

Description

Boston is a fun two pitch route that marks the far left side of the Cheap Wine Wall. It is located just right of the flake/overlap that divides the Cheap Wine and Devil�s Slide areas. To find the start of the climb, look for a prominent notch in the overlap approximately 30 feet above the ground.

P1. Climb the poorly protected slab to the notch (there is a decent stopper placement about 2/3 of the way up the slab to protect these opening moves). Once at the notch, look for a bomber #2 Camalot placement inside the notch and then pull through the overlap on big holds (fun moves). Continue up the face above the overlap past a couple gear placement and two bolts before reaching the anchors at a ledge with a tree and a large flake.

P2. Climb the flake (large gear, #3.5 or #4 Camalot) to the top where it ends at a second smaller tree. From the top of the flake, follow a black, unprotected water streak to the anchors. While the upper section lacks pro, the climbing is easy and the angle eases off as you get higher.

To descend, rap with two ropes back to the P1 anchors. As second two rope rap will get you to the ground. When we climbed the route, we had a single 60m rope and had to downclimb the last 10 feet of each pitch.

Protection

Light rack with a set of stoppers and small to medium cams. Take one larger piece (#3.5 or #4 Camalot) for the flake on the second pitch.

Photos