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> Joshua Tree NP
> Central Joshua…
> Echo Rock Area
> Little Rock Can…
> W & S Faces
Sugar Daddy
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British
Avg: 2.1 from 27
votes
Routes in West & South Faces
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Bare Leigh Legal S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Chick Flakey T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Chicken Bones T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Chicken Bones Variation T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Flakey Jake T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R |
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Jolly Rancher Firestix T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R |
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Jolly Rancher Firestix, Direct Start TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R |
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Lips Like Sugar T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nestle's Crunch T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13 |
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Sugar Daddy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Wayne's World T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 34.02375, -116.15138 |
| FA: | Chick Holtkamp and John Lakey, February 1978 |
| Page Views: | 1,672 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Roger Linfield on Sep 15, 2006 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Salamanizer Ski |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock-colored bolt hangers are allowed. A permit is required to replace or add new bolts: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Seasonal Closures:
The presence of a nesting owl in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes, "Right On," "Orange Flake," "Kid Caligula," requires closure until the nest has been abandoned to ensure the protection of the species for the duration of the nesting activities. This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned.
The presence of a prairie falcon nesting in very close proximity to a variety of climbing routes requires closure of "Fat Freddie’s Cat,” “Freak Brothers Dome,” “The Weenie,” “Pea Brain,” and “The Red Obelisk." This closure will be in effect from February 17, 2026 until June 7, 2026; or until the nest has been abandoned
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit: nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
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